Etext of Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia
by Ludwig Leichhardt




Production notes:   Footnotes inserted in square brackets [] at point
                    where referenced, or at end of paragraph.
                    Plates (illustrations) not included. A list of plates
                    is given at end of Table of Contents.






Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia: From Moreton Bay
to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during
the years 1844-1845


Leichhardt, Ludwig (1813-1848)


 "Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann
 Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde"

GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris.



To
WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol;
To
ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY
And to
THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES
This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated,
By
The Author




PREFACE



In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest
obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches
have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not
only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which
will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of
obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his
surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.

To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted
for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall
ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous
attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.

From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has
evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every
assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.

I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to
these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on
this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough
to  take in the success of my approaching enterprise.


LUDWIG LEICHIJARDT.
SYDNEY,
September 29th, 1846.



CONTENTS


INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I    LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER
             THE WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY
             RAINS--CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S
             LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.

CHAPTER II   PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB--MEET
             FRIENDLY NATIVES--NATIVE TOMB--THE DAWSON--VERVAIN
             PLAINS--GILBERT'S RANGE--LYND'S RANGE--ROBINSON'S
             CREEK--MURPHY'S LAKE--MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY--EXPEDITION
             RANGE--MOUNT NICHOLSON--ALDIS'S PEAK--THE BOYD.

CHAPTER III  RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE
             OF FLOUR REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS
             RANGES--BROWN'S LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET
             CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.

CHAPTER IV   SWARMS OF COCKATOOS--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER
             REDUCED--NATIVE FAMILY--THE MACKENZIE--COAL--NATIVES SPEAKING
             A DIFFERENT IDIOM--MOUNT STEWART--BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE
             WAY BACK TO THE CAMP--FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH
             DAY--NEUMAN'S CREEK--ROPER'S PEAK--CALVERT'S PEAK--GILBERT'S
             DOME--GREAT WANT OF WATER.

CHAPTER V    DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE--PHILLIPS'S
             MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN--HUGHS'S
             CREEK--TOMBSTONE CREEK--CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY--THE
             ISAACS--NATIVE WOMEN--COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE--GEOLOGICAL
             CHARACTER--CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES--BROWN FOLLOWS
             HIM--BOTH RETURN PENITENT--VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER--SKULL
             OF NATIVE--FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI   HEADS OF THE ISAACS--THE SUTTOR--FLINT-ROCK--INDICATIONS OF
             WATER--DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US--EASTER
             SUNDAY--ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN--NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE
             ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN--A BARTER WITH
             THEM--MOUNT M'CONNEL.

CHAPTER VII  THE BURDEKIN--TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE
             ROCKS--THACKER'S RANGE--WILD FIGS--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS--THE
             CLARKE--THE PERRY.

CHAPTER VIII BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL--NIGHT WATCH--ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY
             LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY--MOUNT
             LANG--STREAMS OF LAVA--A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND
             EATEN--NATIVE TRIBE--MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT--WHITSUNDAY--BIG
             ANT HILL CREEK--DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS--FRIENDLY
             NATIVES--SEPARATION CREEK--THE LYND--PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS
             OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS--NATIVE CAMP--SALT EXHAUSTED.

CHAPTER IX   THE STARRY HEAVENS--SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE--SAWFISH--
             TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES--THE MITCHELL--MURPHY'S
             PONY POISONED--GREEN TREE-ANT--NEW BEVERAGE--CROCODILE--
             AUDACITY OF KITES--NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY--THE CAMP ATTACKED
             AT NIGHT BY THEM--MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED,
             AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.

CHAPTER X    INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA--NATIVES MUCH
             MORE NUMEROUS--THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA--THE
             STAATEN--A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP--THE VAN DIEMEN--THE
             GILBERT--SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS--CARON RIVER--FRIENDLY
             NATIVES--THE YAPPAR--MR. CALVERT RECOVERED--MODE OF
             ENCAMPMENT--SWARMS OF FLIES--ABUNDANCE OF SALT--NATIVES
             FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.

CHAPTER XI   SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES--NATIVE
             CARVING--AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED--THE ALBERT, OR
             MAET SUYKER--NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU--
             BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT--NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING
             EMUS--BEAMES'S BROOK--THE NICHOLSON--RECONNOITRE BY
             NIGHT--SMITH'S CREEK--THE MARLOW.

CHAPTER XII  HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS--FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE
             CAMP--TURNER'S CREEK--WENTWORTH'S CREEK--JOURNALS LOST; FOUND
             AGAIN--THE VAN ALPHEN--IMPORTANCE OF TEA--CHOICE OF BULLOCKS
             FOR AN EXPEDITION--CHOICE OF A DOG--THE CALVERT--THE ABEL
             TASMAN--GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN--DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE
             FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS--SEVEN EMU RIVER--CROCODILE--THE
             ROBINSON--SHOAL OF PORPOISES--NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE
             FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD--MR. ROPER
             CONVALESCENT--WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES--SUCCEED IN DRESSING
             THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA--THE MACARTHUR--FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH
             CIRCUMCISED NATIVES--STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED--MEDICAL PROPERTY
             OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.

CHAPTER XIII CAPE MARIA--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF
             NATURAL HISTORY--LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER--HABITS OF WATER
             BIRDS--NATIVE FISH TRAP--THE FOUR ARCHERS--THE WICKHAM--THE
             DOG DIES--IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE--THE ROPER--THREE
             HORSES DROWNED--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL
             COLLECTION--MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES,
             CIRCUMCISED--HODGSON'S CREEK--THE WILTON--ANOTHER HORSE
             DROWNED--ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE--AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP
             FRUSTRATED--BOILS--BASALT AGAIN--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE
             SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.

CHAPTER XIV  INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE--DISTRESSING HEAT--A HORSE STAKED: IT
             DIES--MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES--MAGNIFICENT VALLEY--FRIENDLY
             NATIVES--SHOT EXHAUSTED--INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS--SOUTH
             ALLIGATOR RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH
             HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS--THEIR
             LANGUAGE--MIRAGE.

CHAPTER XV   JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH--THEY ARE VERY
             FRIENDLY--ALLAMURR--DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY--EAST
             ALLIGATOR RIVER--CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE--
             IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY--NATIVES STILL
             MORE INTELLIGENT--NYUALL--BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY
             SPRUNG--NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US--MOUNT
             MORRIS BAY--RAFFLES BAY--LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK
             BEHIND--BILL WHITE--ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON--VOYAGE
             TO SYDNEY.
APPENDIX
             LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT

             THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL

* * * * *

LIST OF PLATES (Not included in this etext)

 Lagoon near South Alligator River
 Portraits of "Charley" and "Harry Brown"
 Mount Nicholson, Expedition Range, &c.
 Peak Range
 Red Mountain
 Fletcher's Awl, &c.
 Campbell's Peak
 Mount M'Connel.
 Ranges seen from a granitic hill between second and third camp
    at the Burdekin
 Robey's Range
 Grasshopper
 View near South Alligator River
 Victoria Square, Port Essington




INTRODUCTION



ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--PARTY FORMED--LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE--PARTY
ENLARGED--OUTFIT AND STORES.


On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country
northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found
that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North
Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of
the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly
recommended the appropriation of a sum of money to the amount of 1000
pounds, for the equipment of an expedition under Sir Thomas Mitchell, to
accomplish this highly interesting object. Some delay was, however,
caused by the necessity of communicating with the Secretary of State for
the Colonies; and in the mean time it was understood that Captain Sturt
was preparing to start from Adelaide to proceed across the Continent.
From the experience which I had gained during my two years' journeyings,
both in surmounting the difficulties of travelling through a broken
mountainous country, and in enduring privations of every sort, "I was
inspired with the desire of attempting it," provided I could be assisted
in the expense that would necessarily be incurred for the outfit, and
could find a few companions who would be contented with animal food, and
willingly and patiently submit to the privation of flour, tea, and sugar,
and resign themselves to my guidance.

I had well considered this interesting subject in all its bearings, and
had discussed it with many of my acquaintances at Brisbane and its
neighbouring district; who were generally of opinion that it was
practicable, under the plan I had marked out: but with others,
particularly at Sydney, I had to contend against a strong but kindly
meant opposition to my journey. Some, who took more than a common
interest in my pursuits, regretted that I should leave so promising a
field of research as that which offered itself within the limits of New
South Wales, and in which they considered I had laboured with some
success during the last two years. Others considered the undertaking
exceedingly dangerous, and even the conception of it madness on my part;
and the consequence of a blind enthusiasm, nourished either by a deep
devotion to science, or by an unreasonable craving for fame: whilst
others did not feel themselves justified in assisting a man who they
considered was setting out with an intention of committing suicide. I was
not, however, blind as to the difficulties of the journey which I was
determined to undertake; on the contrary, and I hope my readers will
believe me to be sincere, I thought they would be many and great--greater
indeed than they eventually proved to be; but, during my recent
excursions through the Squatting districts, I had so accustomed myself to
a comparatively wild life, and had so closely observed the habits of the
aborigines, that I felt assured that the only real difficulties which I
could meet with would be of a local character. And I was satisfied that,
by cautiously proceeding, and always reconnoitring in advance or on
either side of our course, I should be able to conduct my party through a
grassy and well watered route; and, if I were so fortunate as to effect
this, I felt assured that the journey, once commenced, would be finished
only by our arrival at Port Essington. Buoyed up by this feeling, and by
confidence in myself, I prevailed against the solicitations and arguments
of my friends, and commenced my preparations, which, so far as my own
slender means and the contributions of kind friends allowed, were rather
hurriedly completed by the 13th August, 1844.

As our movements were to be comparatively in light marching order, our
preparations were confined more to such provisions and stores as were
actually necessary, than to anything else. But I had frequently reason to
regret that I was not better furnished with instruments, particularly
Barometers, or a boiling water apparatus, to ascertain the elevation of
the country and ranges we had to travel over. The only instruments which
I carried, were a Sextant and Artificial Horizon, a Chronometer, a hand
Kater's Compass, a small Thermometer, and Arrowsmith's Map of the
Continent of New Holland.

In arranging the plan of my journey I had limited my party to six
individuals; and although many young men volunteered their services, I
was obliged to decline their offers, and confine myself to the stated
number, as it was intimately connected with the principles and the means
on which I started.

On leaving Sydney, my companions consisted of Mr. James Calvert; Mr. John
Roper; John Murphy, a lad of about 16 years old: of William Phillips, a
prisoner of the Crown; and of "Harry Brown," an aboriginal of the
Newcastle tribe: making with myself six individuals.

We left Sydney, on the night of the 13th August, for Moreton Bay, in the
steamer "Sovereign," Captain Cape; and I have much pleasure in recording
and thankfully acknowledging the liberality and disinterested kindness of
the Hunter's River Steam Navigation Company, in allowing me a free
passage for my party with our luggage and thirteen horses. The passage
was unusually long, and, instead of arriving at Brisbane in three days,
we were at sea a week, so that my horses suffered much for food and
water, and became discouragingly poor. On arriving at Brisbane, we were
received with the greatest kindness by my friends the "Squatters," a
class principally composed of young men of good education, gentlemanly
habits, and high principles, and whose unbounded hospitality and friendly
assistance I had previously experienced during my former travels through
the district. These gentlemen and the inhabitants of Brisbane overloaded
me with kind contributions, much of which, however, to avoid any
unnecessary increase to my luggage, I found myself compelled to decline
or leave behind; so that I had to forego the advantage of many useful and
desirable articles, from their being too cumbersome for my limited means
of carriage, and therefore interfering with the arrangements for my
undertaking.

My means, however, had since my arrival been so much increased, that I
was after much reluctance prevailed upon to make one change,--to increase
my party; and the following persons were added to the expedition:--Mr.
Pemberton Hodgson, a resident of the district; Mr. Gilbert; Caleb, an
American negro; and "Charley," an aboriginal native of the Bathurst
tribe. Mr. Hodgson was so desirous of accompanying me that, in
consideration of former obligations, I could not refuse him, and, as he
was fond of Botanical pursuits, I thought he might be useful. Of Mr.
Gilbert I knew nothing; he was in the service of Mr. Gould, the talented
Zoologist who has added so much to our knowledge of the Fauna of
Australia, and expressed himself so anxious for an opportunity of making
important observations as to the limits of the habitat of the Eastern
Coast Birds, and also where those of the North Coast commence; as well as
of discovering forms new to Science during the progress of the journey,
that, from a desire to render all the service in my power to Natural
History, I found myself obliged to yield to his solicitations, although
for some time I was opposed to his wish. These gentlemen equipped
themselves, and added four horses and two bullocks to those already
provided.

Perhaps, of all the difficulties I afterwards encountered, none were of
so much real annoyance as those we experienced at first starting from
Brisbane. Much rain had fallen, which filled the creeks and set them
running, and made the road so boggy and soft as to render them almost
impassable. It took us the whole day to transport our party, cattle, and
provisions over the river, and the operation was not concluded before
sunset; but, as it was a fine moonlight night, I determined to start,
however short my first stage might be. Fortunately, my friends had lent
me a bullock dray to convey a portion of our stores as far as Darling
Downs; but, having purchased a light spring cart, it was also loaded;
and, flattering myself that we should proceed comfortably and rapidly, I
gave orders to march. After much continued difficulty in urging and
assisting our horses to drag the cart through the boggy road, we arrived,
at about one o'clock in the morning, at Cowper's Plains, about ten miles
from Brisbane.


I now found my cart an impediment to our movements; but, as it had been
an expensive article, I did not despair of its becoming more useful after
passing the boggy country. A few days afterwards, however, an accident
settled the question; the horses ran away with it, and thereby the shaft
was broken, and the spring injured, so that I was compelled to leave it;
which I then did most cheerfully, as it is always easier to man to yield
to necessity, than to adopt an apparently inconvenient measure by his own
free will. The load was removed to pack-horses, and we proceeded with
comparative ease to Mr. Campbell's station, enjoying the hospitality of
the settlers as we passed on, and carrying with us their best wishes.

I was fortunate in exchanging my broken cart for three good travelling
bullocks, and afterwards purchased five draft-bullocks, which we
commenced to break in for the pack-saddle; for I had by this time
satisfied myself that we could not depend upon the horses for carrying
our load. Neither my companions nor myself knew much about bullocks, and
it was a long time before we were reconciled to the dangerous vicinity of
their horns. By means, however, of iron nose-rings with ropes attached,
we obtained a tolerable command over their movements; and, at last, by
dint of habit, soon became familiar with, and even got attached to, our
blunt and often refractory COMPAGNONS DE VOYAGE.

By a present from Messieurs Campbell and Stephens of four young steers
and one old bullock, and of a fat bullock from Mr. Isaacs, our stock of
cattle consisted now of 16 head: of horses we had 17: and our party
consisted of ten individuals. Of provisions--we had 1200 lbs. of flour:
200 lbs. of sugar: 80 lbs. of tea: 20 lbs. of gelatine: and other
articles of less consideration, but adding much to our comfort during the
first few weeks of our journey. Of ammunition--we had about 30 pounds of
powder, and 8 bags of shot of different sizes, chiefly of No. 4 and No.
6. Every one, at my desire, had provided himself with two pair of strong
trowsers, three strong shirts, and two pair of shoes; and I may further
remark that some of us were provided with Ponchos, made of light strong
calico, saturated with oil, which proved very useful to us by keeping out
the wet, and made us independent of the weather; so that we were well
provided for seven months, which I was sanguine enough to think would be
a sufficient time for our journey. The result proved that our
calculations, as to the provisions, were very nearly correct; for even
our flour, much of which was destroyed by accident, lasted to the end of
May, the eighth month of our journey; but, as to the time it occupied, we
were very much deceived.

Our riding-saddles and pack-saddles were made of good materials, but they
were not fitted to the horses' backs, which caused a constant
inconvenience, and which would not have happened, had my means allowed me
to go to a greater expense. So long as we had spare horses, to allow
those with sore backs to recover, we did not suffer by it: but when we
were compelled to ride the same horses without intermission, it exposed
us to great misery and even danger, as well as the risk of losing our
provisions and stores. Our pack-saddles had consequently to be altered to
the dimensions of the bullocks; and, having to use the new ones for
breaking in, they were much injured, even before we left Mr. Campbell's
to commence our journey. The statements of what a bullock was able to
carry were very contradictory; but in putting 250 lbs. upon them the
animals were overloaded; and my experience has since shown me that they
cannot, continually day after day, carry more than 150 lbs. for any
distance. The difficulties which we met with for the first three weeks,
were indeed very trying:--the loading of bullocks and horses took
generally two hours; and the slightest accident, or the cargo getting
loose during the day's journey, frequently caused the bullocks to upset
their loads and break the straps, and gave us great trouble even in
catching them again:--at night, too, if we gave them the slightest
chance, they would invariably stray back to the previous camp; and we had
frequently to wait until noon before Charley and Brown, who generally
performed the office of herdsman in turns, recovered the ramblers. The
consequences were that we could proceed only very slowly, and that, for
several months, we had to keep a careful watch upon them throughout the
night. The horses, with some few exceptions, caused us less trouble at
the commencement of our journey than afterwards, when our hobbles were
worn out and lost, and, with the exception of one or two which in turns
were tethered in the neighbourhood of the camp in order to prevent the
others from straying, they were necessarily allowed to feed at large. It
may readily be imagined that my anxiety to secure our horses was very
great, because the loss of them would have put an immediate stop to my
undertaking.--But I hasten to enter on the narrative of our journey.




CHAPTER I



LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER THE
WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY RAINS--CHARLEY'S
MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB
FOUND AGAIN.


It was at the end of September, 1844, when we completed the necessary
preparations for our journey, and left the station of Messrs. Campbell
and Stephens, moving slowly towards the farthest point on which the white
man has established himself. We passed the stations of Messrs. Hughs and
Isaacs and of Mr. Coxen, and arrived on the 30th September, at Jimba,
[It is almost always written Fimba, in the Journal; but I have corrected
it to Jimba.--(ED.)] where we were to bid farewell to civilization.

These stations are established on creeks which come down from the western
slopes of the Coast Range--here extending in a north and south
direction--and meander through plains of more or less extent to join the
Condamine River; which--also  rising in the Coast Range, where the latter
expands into the table-land of New England--sweeps round to the
northward, and, flowing parallel to the Coast Range, receives the whole
drainage from the country to the westward of the range. The Condamine
forms, for a great distance, the separation of the sandstone country to
the westward, from the rich basaltic plains to the eastward. These
plains, so famous for the richness of their pasture, and for the
excellency of the sheep and cattle depastured upon them, have become
equally remarkable as the depositaries of the remains of extinct species
of animals, several of which must have been of a gigantic size, being the
Marsupial representatives of the Pachydermal order of other continents.

Mr. Isaacs' station is particularly rich in these fossil remains; and
they have been likewise found in the beds and banks of Mr. Hodgson's and
of Mr. Campbell's Creeks, and also of Oaky Creek. At Isaacs' Creek, they
occur together with recent freshwater shells of species still living in
the neighbouring ponds, and with marly and calcareous concretions; which
induces me to suppose that these plains were covered with large sheets of
water, fed probably by calcareous springs connected with the basaltic
range, and that huge animals, fond of water, were living, either on the
rich herbage surrounding these ponds or lakes, or browsing upon the
leaves and branches of trees forming thick brushes on the slopes of the
neighbouring hills.  The rise of the country, which is very generally
supposed to have taken place, was probably the cause of the disappearance
of the water, and of the animals becoming extinct, when its necessary
supply ceased to exist. Similar remains have been found in Wellington
Valley, and in the Port Phillip District, where, probably, similar
changes have taken place.

The elevation of Darling Downs--about 1800 to 2000 feet, according to the
barometrical observations of Mr. Cunningham--renders the climate much
cooler than its latitude would lead one to suppose; indeed, ice has
frequently been found, during the calm clear nights of winter. During
September and October, we observed at sunrise an almost perfect calm.
About nine o'clock, light westerly winds set in, which increased towards
noon, died away towards evening, and after sunset, were succeeded by
light easterly breezes; thunder-storms rose from south and south-west,
and passed over with a violent gust of wind and heavy showers of rain;
frequently, in half an hour's time, the sky was entirely clear again;
sometimes, however, the night and following day were cloudy.

The plains, as we passed, were covered with the most luxuriant grass and
herbage. Plants of the leguminosae and compositae, were by far the most
prevalent; the colour of the former, generally a showy red, that of the
latter, a bright yellow. Belts of open forest land, principally composed
 of the Box-tree of the Colonists (a species of Eucalyptus), separate the
different plains; and patches of scrub, consisting of several species of
Acacias, and of a variety of small trees, appear to be the outposts of
the extensive scrubs of the interior. There are particularly three
species of Acacias, which bestow a peculiar character on these scrubs:
the one is the Myal (A. pendula)--first seen by Oxley on Liverpool
Plains, and afterwards at the Barwan, and which exists in all the western
plains between the Barwan and Darling Downs--whose drooping foliage and
rich yellow blossoms render it extremely elegant and ornamental. The
second, the Acacia of Coxen, resembles the Myal (without its drooping
character), its narrow lanceolate phyllodia rather stiff, its yellowish
branches erect. The third, is the Bricklow Acacia, which seems to be
identical with the Rose-wood Acacia of Moreton Bay; the latter, however,
is a fine tree, 50 to 60 feet high, whereas the former is either a small
tree or a shrub. I could not satisfactorily ascertain the origin of the
word Bricklow [Brigaloe, GOULD.], but, as it is well understood and
generally
adopted by all the squatters between the Severn River and the Boyne, I
shall
make use of the name. Its long, slightly falcate leaves, being of a
silvery
green colour, give a peculiar character to the forest, where the tree
abounds.

Oct. 1.--After having repaired some harness, which had been broken by our
refractory bullocks  upsetting their loads, and after my companions had
completed their arrangements, in which Mr. Bell kindly assisted, we left
Jimba, and launched, buoyant with hope, into the wilderness of Australia.

Many a man's heart would have thrilled like our own, had he seen us
winding our way round the first rise beyond the station, with a full
chorus of "God Save the Queen," which has inspired many a British
soldier,--aye, and many a Prussian too--with courage in the time of
danger. Scarcely a mile from Jimba we crossed Jimba Creek, and travelled
over Waterloo Plains, in a N. W. direction, about eight miles, where we
made our first camp at a chain of ponds. Isolated cones and ridges were
seen to the N. E., and Craig Range to the eastward: the plains were
without trees, richly grassed, of a black soil with frequent concretions
of a marly and calcareous nature. Charley gave a proof of his wonderful
power of sight, by finding every strap of a pack-saddle, that had been
broken, in the high grass of Waterloo Plains.

Oct. 2.--Bullocks astray, but found at last by Charley; and a start
attempted at 1 o'clock; the greater part of the bullocks with sore backs:
the native tobacco in blossom. One of the bullocks broke his pack-saddle,
and compelled us to halt.

Oct. 3.--Rise at five o'clock, and start at half-past nine; small plains
alternate with a flat forest country, slightly timbered; melon-holes;
marly concretions, a stiff clayey soil, beautifully  grassed: the
prevailing timber trees are Bastard box, the Moreton Bay ash, and the
Flooded Gum. After travelling seven miles, in a north-west direction, we
came on a dense Myal scrub, skirted by a chain of shallow water-holes.
The scrub trending towards, and disappearing in, the S. W.: the Loranthus
and the Myal in immense bushes; Casuarina frequent. In the forest,
Ranunculus inundatus; Eryngium with terete simple leaves, of which the
horses are fond; Prasophyllum elatum, sweetly scented. A new composite
with white blossoms, the rays narrow and numerous. Sky clear; cumuli to
the S. W.; wind from the westward. Ridges visible to the N.N.E. and N.E.
At the outskirts of the scrub, the short-tailed sleeping lizard with
knobby scales was frequent: one of them contained six eggs. We camped
outside of the scrub, surrounded by small tufts of the Bricklow Acacia.
Droves of kangaroos entered the scrub; their foot-paths crossed the
forest in every direction.

The thermometer, before and at sunrise, 32 degrees; so cold that I could
not work with my knife, away from the fire. At sunset, a thick gathering
of clouds to the westward.

Oct. 4.--Cloudy sky; thermometer 50 degrees at sunrise; little dew; 64
degrees at eight o'clock.

We travelled about eleven miles in a S. W. and S. S. W. direction,
skirting the scrub. During the journey, two thunder-storms passed over;
one to the southward beyond the Condamine, the other to  the north and
north-east over the mountains. The scrub is a dense mass of vegetation,
with a well defined outline--a dark body of foliage, without grass, with
many broken branches and trees; no traces of water, or of a rush of
waters. More to the southward, the outline of the scrub becomes less
defined, and small patches are seen here and there in the forest. The
forest is open and well timbered; but the trees are rather small. A chain
of lagoons from E. by N.--W. by S.; large flooded gum-trees (but no
casuarinas) at the low banks of the lagoons. The presence of many
fresh-water muscles (Unio) shows that the water is constant, at least in
ordinary seasons.

The scrub opens more and more; a beautiful country with Bricklow groves,
and a white Vitex in full blossom. The flats most richly adorned by
flowers of a great variety of colours: the yellow Senecios, scarlet
Vetches, the large Xeranthemums, several species of Gnaphalium, white
Anthemis-like compositae: the soil is a stiff clay with concretions:
melon-holes with rushes; the lagoons with reeds.

At night, a thunder-storm from south-west. Our dogs caught a female
kangaroo with a young one in its pouch, and a kangaroo rat.

Oct. 5.--We followed the chain of lagoons for about seven miles, in a
west by south direction; the country to our right was most beautiful,
presenting detached Bricklow groves, with the Myal, and with the Vitex in
full bloom, surrounded by lawns  of the richest grass and herbage; the
partridge pigeon (Geophaps scripta) abounded in the Acacia groves; the
note of the Wonga Wonga (Leucosarcia picata, GOULD.) was heard; and ducks
and two pelicans were seen on the lagoons. Blackfellows had been here a
short time ago: large unio shells were abundant; the bones of the
codfish, and the shield of the fresh-water turtle, showed that they did
not want food. A small orange tree, about 5-8 minutes high, grows either
socially or scattered in the open scrub, and a leafless shrub, belonging
to the Santalaceae, grows in oblong detached low thickets.
Chenopodiaceous plants are always frequent where the Myal grows. The
latitude of our camp was 26 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds.

Oct. 6.--Was fully occupied with mending our packsaddles and straps,
broken by the bullocks in throwing off their loads.

Oct. 7.--In following the chain of lagoons to the westward, we came,
after a few miles travelling, to the Condamine, which flows to the
north-west: it has a broad, very irregular bed, and was, at the time,
well provided with water--a sluggish stream, of a yellowish muddy colour,
occasionally accompanied by reeds. We passed several gullies and a creek
from the northward, slightly running.

The forest on the right side of the river was tolerably open, though
patches of Myal scrub several times exposed us to great inconvenience;
the left bank of the Condamine, as much as we could see of it, was a fine
well grassed open forest. Conglomerate  and sandstone cropped out in
several sections. Mosquitoes and sandflies were very trouble-some. I
found a species of snail nearly resembling Succinea, in the fissures of
the bark of the Myal, on the Box, and in the moist grass. The
muscle-shells are of immense size. The well-known tracks of Blackfellows
are everywhere visible; such as trees recently stripped of their bark,
the swellings of the apple-tree cut off to make vessels for carrying
water, honey cut out, and fresh steps cut in the trees to climb for
opossums. Our latitude was 26 degrees 49 minutes. The thermometer was
41 1/2 at sunrise; but in the shade, between 12 and 2 o'clock, it stood at
80 degrees, and the heat was very great, though a gentle breeze and
passing clouds mitigated the power of the scorching sun.

Oct. 8.--During the night, we had a tremendous thunder-storm, with much
thunder and lightning from the west. The river was very winding, so that
we did not advance more than 7 or 8 miles W.N.W.; the Bricklow scrub
compelled us frequently to travel upon the flood-bed of the river. Fine
grassy forest-land intervened between the Bricklow and Myal scrubs; the
latter is always more open than the former, and the soil is of a rich
black concretionary character. The soil of the Bricklow scrub is a stiff
clay, washed out by the rains into shallow holes, well known by the
squatters under the name of melon-holes; the composing rock of the low
ridges was a clayey sandstone (Psammite). Sky cloudy; wind north-east;
thermometer 80 degrees at 2 o'clock; the sunshine plant (Mimosa
terminalis) was frequent on the black soil; a Swainsonia; an Anthericum,
with allium leaf and fine large yellow blossoms; and another species with
small blossoms, (Stypandra).

Oct. 9.--Commenced with cloudy weather, threatening rain. It cleared up,
however, about 10 o'clock, and we had a very warm day. We followed the
course of the river for some time, which is fringed with Myal scrubs,
separated by hills with fine open forest. Finding that the river trended
so considerably to the northward [It seems that NORTHWARD here is merely
miswritten for WESTWARD.--(ED.)], we left it at a westerly bend, hoping
to make it again in a north-west direction. Thus, we continued travelling
through a beautiful undulating country, until arrested by a Bricklow
scrub, which turned us to the south-west; after having skirted it, we
were enabled to resume our course to W.N.W., until the decline of day
made me look for water to the south-west. The scrubs were awful, and
threatened to surround us; but we succeeded in finding a fine large
lagoon, probably filled by the drainage of the almost level country to
the north-east. No water-course, not the slightest channel produced by
heavy rains, was visible to indicate the flow of waters. Occasionally we
met with swampy ground, covered with reeds, and with some standing water
of the last rains; the ground was so rotten, that the horses and bullocks
sunk into it over the fetlocks. The principal timber trees here, are the
bastard box, the flooded-gum, and the Moreton Bay ash; in the Myal scrub,
Coxen's Acacia attains a very considerable size; we saw also some
Ironbark trees.

The tracks and dung of cattle were observed; and this was the farthest
point to the westward where we met with them. Kangaroos seemed to be very
rare; but kangaroo rats were numerous. Black-fellows were very near to us
last night; they very probably withdrew upon seeing us make our
appearance.

Oct. 10.--Cloudy; wind northerly; thermometer at 2h. 30m. P. M. 88
degrees. At about 1 1/2 or 2 miles distance, in a north-west direction
from our last camp, we came to a fine running creek from the north-east,
which we easily crossed; and, at about one mile farther, reached a
creek--which, at this time of the year, is a chain of lagoons--lined on
both sides by Bricklow scrub, which occupied a portion of its limited
flats in little points and detached groves. This vale was one of the most
picturesque spots we had yet seen. An Ironbark tree, with greyish
fissured bark and pale-green foliage, grows here, and Sterculia
heterophylla is pretty frequent amongst the box and flooded-gum, on the
rising ground between the two creeks. Farther on, the country opened, the
scrub receded; Ironbark ridges here and there, with spotted gum, with
dog-wood (Jacksonia) on a sandy soil, covered with flint pebbles,
diversified the sameness. The grass was beautiful, but the tufts distant;
the Ironbark forest was sometimes interspersed with clusters of Acacias;
sometimes the Ironbark trees were small and formed thickets. Towards the
end of the stage, the country became again entirely flat, without any
indication of drainage, and we were in manifest danger of being without
water. At last, a solitary lagoon was discovered, about 30 yards in
diameter, of little depth, but with one large flooded gum-tree, marked,
by a piece of bark stripped off, as the former resting-place of a native;
the forest oak is abundant. Here I first met with Hakea lorea, R. Br.,
with long terete drooping leaves, every leaf one and a-half to two feet
long--a small tree 18--24 minutes high--and with Grevillea mimosoides, R.
Br., also a small tree, with very long riband-like leaves of a silvery
grey. We did not see any kangaroos, but got a kangaroo rat and a
bandicoot.

Oct. 11.--Travelling north-west we came to a Cypress-pine thicket, which
formed the outside of a Bricklow scrub. This scrub was, at first,
unusually open, and I thought that it would be of little extent; I was,
however, very much mistaken: the Bricklow Acacia, Casuarinas and a
stunted tea-tree, formed so impervious a thicket, that the bullocks, in
forcing their way through it, tore the flour-bags, upset their loads,
broke their straps, and severely tried the patience of my companions, who
were almost continually occupied with reloading one or other of the
restless brutes. Having travelled five miles into it, and finding no
prospect of its termination, I resolved upon returning to our last camp,
which, however, I was not enabled to effect, without experiencing great
difficulty, delay, and loss; and it was not until the expiration of two
days, that we retraced our steps, and reached the lagoon which we had
left on the 11th. We had lost about 143 pounds of flour; Mr. Gilbert lost
his tent, and injured the stock of his gun. The same night, rain set in,
which lasted the whole of the next day: it came in heavy showers, with
thunder-storms, from the north and north-west, and rendered the ground
extremely boggy, and made us apprehensive of being inundated, for the
lagoon was rapidly rising: our tent was a perfect puddle, and the horses
and cattle were scarcely able to walk.

Within the scrub there was a slight elevation, in which sandstone cropped
out: it was covered with cypress-pine, and an Acacia, different from the
Bricklow. The Bottle-tree (Sterculia, remarkable for an enlargement of
the stem, about three feet above the ground,) was observed within the
scrub: the white Vitex (?) and Geigera, SCHOTT., a small tree, with
aromatic linear-lanceolate leaves, grew at its outside, and in small
groves scattered through the open forest. Fusanus, a small tree with
pinnate leaves, and Buttneria, a small shrub, were also found in these
groves.

Many pigeons were seen; the black cockatoo of Leach (Calyptorhynchus
Leachii) was shot; we passed several nests of the brush-turkey (Talegalla
Lathami, GOULD). Charley got a probably new species of bandicoot, with
longer ears than the common one, and with white paws. We distinguished,
during the rain, three different frogs, which made a very inharmonious
concert. The succinea-like shells were very abundant in the moist grass;
and a limnaea in the lagoon seemed to me to be a species different from
those I had observed in the Moreton Bay district, The thermometer at
sunset 62 degrees (in the water 68 degrees); at sunrise 52 degrees (in
the water 62 degrees).

On the 15th October, the wind changed during the afternoon to the
westward, and cleared the sky, and dried the ground very rapidly.

Oct. 17.--The ground was too heavy and boggy to permit us to start
yesterday; besides, three horses were absent, and could not be found.
Last night, Mr. Roper brought in three ducks and a pigeon, and was
joyfully welcomed by all hands. Charley had been insolent several times,
when I sent him out after the cattle, and, this morning, he even
threatened to shoot Mr. Gilbert. I immediately dismissed him from our
service, and took from him all the things which he held on condition of
stopping with us. The wind continued from the west and south-west.

Oct. 18.--Towards evening Charley came and begged my pardon. I told him
that he had particularly offended Mr. Gilbert, and that I could not think
of allowing him to stay, if Mr. Gilbert had the slightest objection to
it: he, therefore, addressed himself to Mr. Gilbert, and, with his
consent, Charley entered again into our service. John Murphy and Caleb,
the American negro, went to a creek, which Mr. Hodgson had first seen,
when out on a RECONNOISSANCE to the northward, in order to get some game.
John had been there twice before, and it was not four miles distant:
they, however, did not return, and, at nine o'clock at night, we heard
firing to the north-east. We answered by a similar signal, but they did
not come in. I sent Mr. Hodgson and Charley to bring them back. If they
had simply given the bridle to their horses, they would have brought them
back without delay; but probably both got bewildered.

The latitude of this lagoon, which I called Kent's Lagoon, after F. Kent,
Esq., is 26 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds. We tried to obtain opossums,
during the clear moonlight night, but only caught the common rabbit-rat.

Our horses go right into the scrub, to get rid of the little flies, which
torment them. The weather is very fair; the regular westerly breeze,
during the day, is setting in again: the dew is very abundant during
clear nights: the morning very cold; the water of the lagoon 8 degrees to
10 degrees warmer than the air.

We have regularly balanced our loads, and made up every bag of flour to
the weight of 120 pounds: of these we have eight, which are to be carried
by four bullocks. The chocolate and the gelatine are very acceptable at
present, as so little animal food can be obtained. The country continues
to be extremely boggy, though the weather has been fine, with high winds,
for the last four days. Tracks of Blackfellows have been seen; but they
appear rare and scattered in this part of the country. Though we meet
with no game, tracks of kangaroos are very numerous, and they frequently
indicate animals of great size. Emus have been seen twice.

Thermometer at sunset 65 degrees 7 minutes (75 degrees in the water); at
a quarter past one, 90 degrees. South-westerly winds.

Oct. 19.--During the night, north-easterly breeze; at the break of day, a
perfect calm; after sunset easterly winds again. Thermometer at sunrise
51 degrees (60 degrees in the water); a cloudless sky. Mr. Hodgson and
Charley, whom I had sent to seek John and Caleb, returned to the camp
with a kangaroo. I sent them immediately off again, with Mr. Roper, to
find the two unfortunate people, whose absence gave me the greatest
anxiety. Mr. Roper and Mr. Gilbert had brought one pigeon and one duck,
as a day's sport; which, with the kangaroo, gave us a good and desirable
supper of animal food. During the evening and the night, a short
bellowing noise was heard, made probably by kangaroos, of which Mr.
Gilbert stated he had seen specimens standing nine feet high. Brown
brought a carpet snake, and a brown snake with yellow belly. The flies
become very numerous, but the mosquitoes are very rare.

On a botanical excursion I found a new Loranthus, with flat linear
leaves, on Casuarina, a new species of Scaevola, Buttneria, and three
species of Solanum. Mr. Hodgson brought a shrubby Goodenia; another
species with linear leaves, and with very small yellow blossoms, growing
on moist places in the forest; two shrubby Compositae; three different
species of Dodonaea, entering into fruit; and a Stenochilus, R. Br. with
red blossoms, the most common little shrub of the forest.

Mr. Gilbert brought me a piece of coal from the crossing place of the
creek of the 10th October. It belongs probably to the same layer which is
found at Flagstone Creek, on Mr. Leslie's station, on Darling Downs. We
find coal at the eastern side of the Coast Range, from Illawarra up to
Wide Bay, with sandstone; and it seems that it likewise extends to the
westward of the Coast Range, being found, to my knowledge, at Liverpool
Plains, at Darling Downs, and at Charley's Creek, of the 10th Oct. It is
here, as well as at the east side, connected with sandstone. Flint
pebbles, of a red colour, were very abundant at Charley's Creek, and in
the scrub, which I called the Flourspill, as it had made such a heavy
inroad into our flour-bags. The flat on which we encamp, is composed of a
mild clay, which rapidly absorbs the rain and changes into mud; a layer
of stiff clay is about one foot below the surface. The grasses are at
present in full ear, and often four feet high; but the tufts are distant,
very different from the dense sward at the other side of the Range. As we
left the Myal country of the Condamine, we left also its herbage,
abounding in composite, leguminous, and chenopodiaceous plants, with a
great variety of grasses.

Oct. 20.--This morning, at half-past nine o'clock, Messrs. Roper,
Hodgson, and Charley, returned with John Murphy and Caleb. They had
strayed about twelve miles from the camp, and had fairly lost themselves.
Their trackers had to ride over seventy miles, before they came up to
them, and they would certainly have perished, had not Charley been able
to track them: it was indeed a providential circumstance that he had not
left us. According to their statement, the country is very open, with a
fine large creek, which flows down to the Condamine; this is the creek
which we passed on the 10th Oct., and which I called "Charley's Creek."
The creek first seen by Mr. Hodgson joins this, and we are consequently
still on westerly waters.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 degrees (in the water 64 degrees); at eight
o'clock 64 degrees. Strong easterly and northerly winds during the last
two nights. It becomes calm at a quarter past three, with the rise of
Venus.

Mr. Calvert brought an edible mushroom out of Flourspill Scrub.

The Loranthus of the Myal grows also on other Acacias with glaucous
leaves. A bright yellow everlasting is very fine and frequent.

Oct. 22.--I left Kent's lagoon yesterday. In order to skirt the scrub, I
had to keep to the north-east, which direction brought me, after about
three miles travelling through open forest, to Mr. Hodgson's creek, at
which John Murphy and Caleb had been lost. The creek here consists of a
close chain of fine rocky water-holes; the rock is principally clay,
resembling very much a decomposed igneous rock, but full of nodules and
veins of iron-stone. I now turned to the northward, and encamped at the
upper part of the creek. To-day I took my old course to the north-west,
and passed a scrubby Ironbark forest, and flat openly-timbered forest
land. I came again, however, to a Bricklow scrub, which I skirted, and
after having crossed a very dense scrubby Ironbark forest, came to a
chain of rushy water-holes, with the fall of the waters to the
north-east. The whole drainage of a north-easterly basin, seems to have
its outlet, through Charley's Creek, into the Condamine.

On the banks of Hodgson's Creek, grows a species of Dampiera, with many
blue flowers, which deserves the name of "D. floribunda;" here also were
Leptospermum; Persoonia with lanceolate pubescent leaf; Jacksonia
(Dogwood); the cypress-pine with a light amber-coloured resin (Charley
brought me fine claret-coloured resin, and I should not be surprised to
find that it belongs to a different species of Callitris); an Acacia with
glaucous lanceolate one-inch-long phyllodia; and a Daviesia; another
Acacia with glaucous bipinnate leaves; a white Scaevola, Anthericum, and
a little Sida, with very showy blossoms. Spotted-gum and Ironbark formed
the forest; farther on, flooded-gum.

Pigeons, mutton-birds (Struthidia), are frequent, and provided us with
several messes; iguanas are considered great delicacies; several black
kangaroos were scen to day.

The weather very fine, but hot; the wind westerly; thermometer at sunset
74 degrees (84 degrees in the water.)

Oct. 23.--At the commencement of last night, westerly winds, the sky
clear; at the setting of the moon (about 3 o'clock a.m.), the wind
changed to the north-east; scuddy clouds passing rapidly from that
quarter; at sunrise it clears a little, but the whole morning cloudy, and
fine travelling weather.

We travelled in a north-westerly direction, through a Casuarina thicket,
but soon entered again into fine open Ironbark forest, with occasionally
closer underwood; leaving a Bricklow scrub to our right, we came to a dry
creek with a deep channel; which I called "Acacia Creek," from the
abundance of several species of Acacia. Not a mile farther we came on a
second creek, with running water, which, from the number of Dogwood
shrubs (Jacksonia), in the full glory of their golden blossoms. I called
"Dogwood Creek." The creek came from north and north-east and flowed to
the south-west, to join the Condamine. The rock of Dogwood Creek is a
fine grained porous Psammite (clayey sandstone), with veins and nodules
of iron, like that of Hodgson's creek. A new gum-tree, with a
rusty-coloured scaly bark, the texture of which, as well as the
seed-vessel and the leaf, resembled bloodwood, but specifically
different; the apple-tree (Angophora lanceolata); the flooded-gum; a
Hakea with red blossoms; Zierea; Dodonaea; a crassulaceous plant with
handsome pink flowers; a new myrtaceous tree of irregular stunted growth,
about 30 feet high, with linear leaves, similar to those of the rosemary;
a stiff grass, peculiar to sandstone regions; and a fine Brunonia, with
its chaste blue blossoms, adorn the flats of the creek as well as the
forest land. The country is at present well provided with water and
grass, though the scattered tufts of Anthistiria, and the first
appearance of the small grass-tree (Xanthorrhaea), render its constancy
very doubtful. The winding narrow-leaved Kennedyas, Gnaphaliums in
abundance; Aotus in low bushes.

No game, except a kangaroo rat, pigeons, ducks, and mutton-birds. Mr.
Phillips brought a crawfish from the creek: it had just thrown off its
old shell. Fresh-water muscles plentiful, though not of the size of those
of the Condamine. A small rat was caught this morning amongst our flour
bags; it had no white tip at the tail, nor is the tail so bushy as that
of the rabbit-rat: probably it was a young animal.

Oct. 24.--The creek being boggy, we had to follow it down for several
miles to find a crossing place. Even here, one of the horses which
carried the tea, fell back into the water, whilst endeavouring to
scramble up the opposite bank, and drenched its valuable load. We now
travelled through a country full of lagoons, and chains of water-holes,
and passed through several patches of cypress-pine, until we came to
another creek with rocky water-holes, with the fall to the eastward,
probably joining Dogwood Creek, from which we were not four miles
distant. Fine grassy flats accompanied the creek on its left, whilst a
cypress-pine forest grew on its right bank. The latitude of our
yesterday's camp was 26 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds and, to-day, we are
only four miles more to the westward. The country is still so flat and so
completely wooded--sometimes with scrubs, thickets, Acacia, and Vitex
groves, sometimes with open Ironbark forest intermingled with spotted
gum--that no view of distant objects can be obtained. Several
Epacridaceous shrubs and species of Bossiaea and Daviesia reminded me of
the flora of the more southern districts.

Oct. 25.--We travelled about twelve miles in a north-westerly direction,
our latitude being 26 degrees 15 minutes 46 seconds. The country in
general scrubby, with occasional reaches of open forest land. The
rosemary-leaved tree of the 23rd was very abundant. An Acacia with spiny
phyllodia, the lower half attached to the stem, the upper bent off in the
form of an open hook, had been observed by me on the sandstone ridges of
Liverpool Plains: and the tout ensemble reminded me forcibly of that
locality. The cypress-pine, several species of Melaleuca, and a fine
Ironbark, with broad lanceolate, but not cordate, glaucous leaves, and
very dark bark, formed the forest. An arborescent Acacia, in dense
thickets, intercepted our course several times. Bronze-winged pigeons
were very numerous, but exceedingly shy.

The stillness of the moonlight night is not interrupted by the screeching
of opossums and flying squirrels, nor by the monotonous note of the
barking-bird and little owlet; no native dog is howling round our camp in
the chilly morning: the cricket alone chirps along the water-holes; and
the musical note of an unknown bird, sounding like "gluck gluck"
frequently repeated, and ending in a shake, and the melancholy wail of
the curlew, are heard from the neighbouring scrub.

Oct. 26.--Our journey was resumed: wind in the morning from the west;
light clouds passing rapidly from that quarter.

Messrs. Hodgson and Roper, following the chain of ponds on which we had
encamped, came to a large creek, with high rocky banks and a broad stream
flowing to the south-west. We passed an Acacia scrub, and stretches of
fine open Ironbark forest, interspersed with thickets of an aborescent
species of Acacia, for about four miles in a north-west course, when we
found ourselves on the margin of a considerable valley full of Bricklow
scrub; we were on flat-topped ridges, about 80 to 100 feet above the
level of the valley. After several attempts to cross, we had to turn to
the N. N. E. and east, in order to head it, travelling through a most
beautiful open Ironbark forest, with the grass in full seed, from three
to four feet high. Following a hollow, in which the fall of the country
was indicated by the grass bent by the run of water after heavy showers
of rain, we came to fine water-holes, about five miles from our last
camp.

At the other side of the valley, we saw distant ranges to the north-west
and northward. The scrub was occasionally more open, and fine large
bottle-trees (Sterculia) were frequent: the young wood of which,
containing a great quantity of starch between its woody fibres, was
frequently chewed by our party. Fusanus was abundant and in full bearing;
its fruit (of the size of a small apple), when entirely ripe and dropped
from the tree, furnished a very agreeable repast: the rind, however,
which surrounds its large rough kernel, is very thin.

Oct. 27.--During last night a very strong, cold, westerly wind.

After travelling about 3 1/2 miles north, we were stopped by a Bricklow
scrub, which compelled us to go to the east and south-east. I encamped,
about three miles north-east by north from my last resting place, and
examined the scrub: it was out of the question to cross it. Mr. Gilbert
shot three black cockatoos and a bronze-winged pigeon.

Oct. 28.--During the night it was very cold, though no wind was stirring.
In the morning we experienced an easterly breeze. Travelling to the
eastward and east by south, I found that the water-holes outside of the
scrub at which we were encamped, changed into a creek with rocky bed,
having its banks partly covered with cypress-pine thickets. I crossed it
about three miles lower down, and, finding the Ironbark forest
sufficiently open, turned to the northward; scarcely three miles farther,
we came to another creek of a character similar to that of the last,
which I suppose to be one of the heads of Dogwood Creek. The blue
Brunonia was again frequent; the grass five feet high, in full ear, and
waving like a rye field. The soil, however, is sandy and rotten, and the
grass in isolated tufts. We encamped about four miles north-east from our
last camp.




CHAPTER II



PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB--MEET FRIENDLY
NATIVES--NATIVE TOMB--THE DAWSON--VERVAIN PLAINS--GILBERT'S RANGE--LYND'S
RANGE--ROBINSON'S CREEK--MURPHY'S LAKE--MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY--EXPEDITION
RANGE--MOUNT NICHOLSON--ALDIS'S PEAK--THE BOYD.


Nov. 3.--For the past week, the heat was very oppressive during the day,
whilst, at night, it was often exceedingly cold; for two or three hours
before dawn, and for an hour after sunset, it was generally delightful,
particularly within the influence of a cheerful cypress-pine fire, which
perfumes the air with the sweet scent of the burning resin.

It had now become painfully evident to me that I had been too sanguine in
my calculations, as to our finding a sufficiency of game to furnish my
party with animal food, and that the want of it was impairing our
strength. We had also been compelled to use our flour to a greater extent
than I wished; and I saw clearly that my party, which I had reluctantly
increased on my arrival at Moreton Bay, was too large for our provisions.
I, therefore, communicated to my companions the absolute necessity of
reducing our number: all, however, appeared equally desirous to continue
the journey; and it was, therefore, but just that those who had joined
last, should leave. Mr. Gilbert, however, who would, under this
arrangement, have had to retire, found a substitute in Mr. Hodgson, who
had perhaps suffered most by additional fatigues; so that he and Caleb,
the American negro, prepared for their return to Moreton Bay. Previous,
however, to their departure, they assisted in killing one of our steers,
the meat of which we cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun. This,
our first experiment--on the favourable result of which the success of
our expedition entirely depended--kept us, during the process, in a state
of great excitement. It succeeded, however, to our great joy, and
inspired us with confidence for the future. The little steer gave us
65lbs. of dried meat, and about 15lbs. of fat. The operation concluded,
we took leave of our companions; and although our material was reduced by
the two horses on which they returned, Mr. Hodgson left us the greater
part of his own equipment. The loss of the two horses caused us some
little inconvenience, as it increased the loads of the animals. The daily
ration of the party was now fixed at six pounds of flour per day, with
three pounds of dried beef, which we found perfectly sufficient to keep
up our strength.

Whenever it was necessary to delay for any time at one place, our cattle
and horses gave us great trouble: they would continually stray back in
the direction we came from, and we had frequently to fetch them back
five, seven, and even ten miles. Mr. Hodgson's horses had returned even
to the camp of the 21st October, and three days were required to find
them and bring them back. These matters caused us considerable delay; but
they were irremediable. On the 30th October, towards evening, we were
hailed by natives, from the scrub; but, with the exception of one, they
kept out of sight. This man knew a few English words, and spoke the
language of Darling Downs; he seemed to be familiar with the country
round Jimba; and asked permission to come to the camp: this, however, I
did not permit; and they entered the scrub, when they saw us handle our
guns, and bring forward two horses to the camp. On the 3rd of November
they visited us again, and communicated with us, behaving in a very
friendly way: they pointed out honey in one of the neighbouring trees,
assisted in cutting it out and eating it, and asked for tobacco; it was,
however, impossible to make any presents, as we had nothing to spare.
They particularly admired the red blankets, were terror-struck at the
sight of a large sword, which they tremblingly begged might be returned
into the sheath, and wondered at the ticking of a watch, and at the
movement of its wheels. The greater part were young men of mild
disposition, and pleasing countenance; the children remained in the
distance, and I only saw two women.

According to their statements, the scrub extends to the Condamine.

The scrub was crossed in every direction by tracks of wallabies, of
which, however, we could not even get a sight. The glucking bird--by
which name, in consequence of its note, the bird may be
distinguished--was heard through the night. They live probably upon the
seeds of the cypress-pine; the female answers the loud call of the male,
but in a more subdued voice.

A Gristes, about seven inches long, resembling the one described in Sir
Thomas Mitchell's journey, but specifically different from it, was caught
in the water-holes of the creek, which I called "Dried-beef Creek," in
memorial of our late occupation.

A Goodenoviaceous shrub, a pink Hibiscus, and a fine prostrate Sida, were
found between the camp of the 27th October and Dried-beef Creek.

Nov. 4.--Having previously examined and found a passage through the
scrub, we travelled through it for about eight miles on a north by west
course. The head of Dried-beef Creek, was found to be formed by separate
water-holes, in a slight hollow along the scrub; and, when these
disappeared, we were moving over a perfectly level land, without any sign
of drainage, but occasionally passing isolated holes, now for the greater
part dry. On our left, our course was bounded by a dense Bricklow scrub;
but, on our right, for the first four miles, the country was
comparatively open, with scattered Acacias; it then became densely
timbered, but free from scrub. Farther on, however, scrub appeared even
to our right. A natural opening, which had recently been enlarged by a
bush fire, enabled us to pass into a dense Ironbark and cypress-pine
forest; and then, bearing a little to the right, we came on a slight
watercourse to the northward, which rapidly enlarged as it descended
between ranges, which seemed to be the spurs of the table land we had
just left.

Nov. 5.--We observed the tomb of a native near our camp. It was a simple
conical heap of sand, which had been raised over the body, which was
probably bent into the squatting position of the natives; but, as our
object was to pass quietly, without giving offence to the aborigines, we
did not disturb it. It is, however, remarkable that, throughout our whole
journey, we never met with graves or tombs, or even any remains of
Blackfellows again; with the exception of a skull, which I shall notice
at a later period. Several isolated conical hills were in the vicinity of
our camp; sandstone cropped out in the creek, furnishing us with good
whetstones.

After travelling about four miles in a north-west direction, through a
fine open undulating country, we came to, and followed the course of, a
considerable creek flowing to the westward, bounded by extensive flooded
gum-flats and ridges, clothed with a forest of silver-leaved Ironbark.
Large reedy lagoons, well supplied with fish, were in its bed. Our
latitude was 26 degrees 4 minutes 9 seconds.

Nov. 6.--The arrangement for loading our cattle enabled me at last to
mount every one of my companions, which was very desirable; for the
summer having fairly set in, and no thunder-storms having cooled the
atmosphere since we left the Condamine, the fatigue of walking during the
middle of the day had become very severe. From Jimba we started with a
few horses without load, which only enabled us to ride alternately; but,
as our provisions gradually decreased in quantity, one after the other
mounted his horse; and this day I had the pleasure of seeing everybody on
horseback.

We travelled along the valley of the river about ten miles, in a
west-northerly course; our latitude of this day being 26 degrees 3
minutes 44 seconds Fine box and apple-tree flats were on both sides of
the creek, now deserving the appellation of a "River," and which I called
the "Dawson," in acknowledgment of the kind support I received from R.
Dawson, Esq., of Black Creek, Hunter's River. At the foot of the ridges
some fine lagoons were observed, as also several plains, with the soil
and the vegetation of the Downs, but bounded on the northward by
impenetrable Bricklow scrub. In a watercourse, meandering through this
scrub, sandstone cropped out, in which impressions of fossil plants were
noticed by me. It was interesting to observe how strictly the scrub kept
to the sandstone and to the stiff loam lying upon it, whilst the mild
black whinstone soil was without trees, but covered with luxuriant
grasses and herbs; and this fact struck me as remarkable, because, during
my travels in the Bunya country of Moreton Bay, I found it to be exactly
the reverse: the sandstone spurs of the range being there covered with an
open well grassed forest, whilst a dense vine brush extended over the
basaltic rock. The phenomenon is probably to be explained by the
capability of the different soils of retaining moisture, and, at the same
time, by taking into account the distance of the localities from the
seacoast. I called these plains "Calvert's Plains," after my companion,
Mr. Calvert. Farther to the westward we passed over open ridges, covered
with Bastard-box and silver-leaved Ironbark: the former tree grows
generally in rich black soil, which appeared several times in the form of
ploughed land, well known, in other parts of the colony, either under
that name, or under that of "Devil-devil land," as the natives believe it
to be the work of an evil spirit.

Nov. 7.--The first two hours of the day were cloudy, but it cleared up
and became very hot; the atmosphere was hazy and sultry; cumuli with
undefined outlines all round the horizon: wind from south-west and south.
I travelled west by north about eight miles, along the foot of
Bastard-box and silver-leaved Ironbark ridges. The country was
exceedingly fine; the ground was firm; the valley from two to three miles
broad, clothed with rich grass, and sprinkled with apple-tree,
flooded-gum, and Bastard-box; the hills formed gentle ascents, and were
openly timbered. The water-holes seemed to be constant; they are very
deep, densely surrounded by reeds, and with numerous heaps of broken
muscle-shells round their banks. Scrub was, however, to be seen in the
distance, and formed the dark spot in the pleasant picture. Game became
more frequent; and last night every body had a duck. As we were pursuing
our course, Mr. Gilbert started a large kangaroo, known by the familiar
name of "old man," which took refuge in a water-hole, where it was
killed, but at the expense of two of our kangaroo dogs, which were
mortally wounded. As we were sitting at our dinner, a fine half-grown emu
walked slowly up to us, as if curious to know what business we had in its
lonely haunts; unfortunately for us, the bark of our little terrier
frightened it; and, although one of my Blackfellows shot after it, it
retired unscathed into the neighbouring thicket. Mr. Roper killed a
Rallus, which Mr. Gilbert thought to be new. The high land from which we
came, appears at present as a distant range to the south-east.
Fine-grained sandstone, with impressions of leaves, was again observed,
and a few pieces of silicified wood. A Thysanotus with fine large
blossoms now adorns the forest. The native carrot is in seed; the
Eryngium of Jimba, and a leguminous plant, prostrate with ternate leaves
and bunches of yellow flowers, were frequent; several beautiful species
of everlastings were occasionally seen, and the little orange-tree of the
Condamine grew in the scrub.

Nov. 8.--We followed the Dawson for about eight miles lower down. About
four miles from our camp, it is joined by a fine chain of ponds from the
north-east. The flats on both sides are covered by open Bastard-box
forest, of a more or less open character. In the rainy season, the whole
valley is probably covered with water; for we frequently observed the
marks of torrents rushing down from the hills; and, along the foot of the
ridges, ponds and lagoons were frequent. The heat of summer had already
burnt up a great part of the grasses; and it was only in the immediate
neighbourhood of the river that there was any appearance of verdure. The
bed of the river became drier, and changed its character considerably.
Charley stated, that he had seen a large plain extending for many miles
to the south-west, and a high mountain to the north. Several emus,
pigeons, and ducks were seen. Mr. Calvert found concretions of marl in
the creek. John Murphy caught a great number of crawfish. For the first
time since leaving the Condamine, we were visited by a thunder-storm.
Cumuli generally during the afternoon, with wind from the W.N.W; during
the night it usually clears up.

Nov. 10.--The country along the river changed, during the last two
stages, considerably for the worse. The scrub approached very near to the
banks of the river, and, where it receded, a disagreeable thicket of
Bastard-box saplings filled almost the whole valley: fine lagoons were
along the river, frequently far above its level; the river itself divided
into anabranches, which, with the shallow watercourses of occasional
floods from the hills, made the whole valley a maze of channels, from
which we could only with difficulty extricate ourselves. "I never saw
such a rum river, in my life," said my blackfellow Charley.

The open forest was sometimes one large field of everlasting flowers with
bright yellow blossoms; whilst the scrub plains were thickly covered with
grasses and vervain. Almost all the grasses of Liverpool Plains grow
here. Ironstone and quartz pebbles were strewed over the ground; and, in
the valley, fine-grained sandstone with layers of iron-ore cropped out.

Large fish were seen in the lagoons; but we only succeeded in catching
some small fish of the genus Gristes. Muscles continued to be frequent;
and we saw the gunyas of the natives everywhere, although no native made
his appearance.

It was here that I first met, growing on the scrubby hills, a species of
Bauhinia, either shrubby or a small shady tree, with spreading branches;
the pods are flat, of a blunt form, almost one inch in breadth, and from
three to four inches long. The Bricklow seems to prevent the growth of
almost all other vegetation, with the exception of a small shrub, with
linear lanceolate aromatic leaves. An Acacia, with long drooping, almost
terete leaves, grew along the river; and Crinums grew in patches amongst
the everlasting flowers, on a sandy soil. Our latitude, of the 9th
November, was 25 degrees 53 minutes 55 seconds; and that of the 10th, 25
degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, at about eleven miles north-west from the
camp of the 8th November.

Until the 14th of November, we travelled down the Dawson. In order to
avoid the winding course of the river, and the scrub and thickets that
covered its valley, which rendered our progress very slow, we had
generally to keep to the ridges, which were more open. We several times
met with fine plains, which I called "Vervain Plains," as that plant grew
abundantly on them. They were surrounded with scrub, frequently sprinkled
with Bricklow groves, interspersed with the rich green of the Bauhinia,
and the strange forms of the Bottle-tree; which imparted to the scene a
very picturesque character. From one of these plains we obtained, for the
first time, a view of some well-defined ranges to the west-north-west.
The general course of the river, between the latitudes of 25 degrees 41
minutes 55 seconds and 25 degrees 37 minutes 12 seconds, was to the
northward; but, as it commenced to turn to the east, I was induced to
cross it, and to follow my former direction to the northwest. Between
those two latitudes, the river had commenced to run, which was not the
ease higher up, notwithstanding it was formed by long reaches of water,
upon which pelicans and ducks were abundant. Mr. Calvert and the black,
Charley, who had been sent back to one of our last camping places, had,
on returning, kept a little more to the north-east, and had seen a river
flowing to the northward, and a large creek; both of which, probably,
join the Dawson lower down. At that part of the river where it commences
to run, its bed was more confined, and was fringed by Melaleucas and
drooping Acacias.

Our provisions had been increased by an emu, which Charley shot; our
remaining two kangaroo dogs also succeeded in catching an "old man"
kangaroo on the Vervain Plains of the 14th November. I made it an
invariable practice to dry the meat which remained after the consumption
of the day's allowance, and it served considerably to save our stock of
dried beef, and to lengthen the lives of our bullocks. The utmost economy
was necessary;--for we were constantly exposed to losses, occasioned by
the pack bullocks upsetting their loads; an annoyance which was at this
time of frequent occurrence from the animals being irritated by the
stings of hornets--a retaliation for the injuries done to their nests,
which, being suspended to the branches of trees, were frequently torn
down by the bullocks passing underneath.

A large turtle was seen; and Mr. Gilbert caught two fine eels in one of
the lagoons. We had thunder-storms on the 12th and 13th of November: the
morning is generally cloudy, the clouds come from the north-east and
north, clearing away in the middle of the day; and the afternoon is
exceedingly hot.

Nov. 14.--A dense scrub, which had driven us back to the river, obliged
me to reconnoitre to the north-west, in which I was very successful; for,
after having crossed the scrub, I came into an open country, furnished
with some fine sheets of water, and a creek with Corypha palms, growing
to the height of 25 or 30 feet. The feelings of delight which I
experienced when, upon emerging from the more than usually inhospitable
Bricklow scrub, the dark verdure of a swamp surrounding a small lake
--with native companions (ARDEAANTIGONE) strutting round, and swarms of
ducks playing on its still water, backed by an open forest, in which the
noble palm tree was conspicuous--suddenly burst upon our view, were so
great as to be quite indescribable. I joyfully returned to the camp, to
bring forward my party; which was not, however, performed without
considerable trouble. We had to follow the Dawson down to where the creek
joined it; for the scrub was impassable for loaded bullocks, and, even on
this detour, we had to contend with much scrub as we proceeded down the
valley. It, however, became more free from scrub at every step, and
opened out into flats of more or less extent on either side, skirted by
hills, clothed with an open forest, rising into regular ranges. On my
RECONNAISSANCE I crossed the Gilbert Ranges, which were named after my
companion Mr. Gilbert, and came on waters which fall to the eastward, and
join the Dawson lower down. From the summit of an open part of the range,
I saw other ranges to the northward, but covered with Bricklow scrub, as
was also the greater part of Gibert's Range. To the east, however, the
view was more cheering; for the hills are more open, and the vegetation
composed of the silver-leaved and narrow-leaved Ironbark trees and an
open Vitex scrub. Several rocky gullies were passed, that were full of
palm trees. The valley of Palm-tree Creek extends about nineteen miles
from west to east The ranges which bound it to the south, I called
"Lynd's Range," after my friend R. Lynd, Esq. Gilbert's Range bounds it
to the northward: Middle Range separates the creek from the Dawson up to
their junction. Several large swamps are within the valley; one of which,
the small lake which first broke upon my view, received the name of
"Roper's Lake," after one of my companions.

Nov. 17.--We went about nine miles up the valley, on a south branch of
Palm-tree Creek, which derives its waters from Lynd's Range. The fine
water-hole which I selected for our camp, was not only shaded by stately
Coryphas and flooded gums, but the drooping Callistemon, the creek
Melaleuca, and the Casuarina, gave to it the character of the rivers and
creeks of the Moreton Bay district. It changed, however, into a shallow
waterless channel, communicating with one of the large swamps which
generally extend along the base of the hills. I rode up Lynd's Range,
passing plains similar to those I have before mentioned, composed of
black soil intermingled with fossil wood and decomposed sandstone, and
densely covered with Burr, (a composite plant) and Verbena, and scattered
tufts either of Bricklow, or of Coxen's Acacia, or of the bright green
Fusanus, or of the darker verdure of Bauhinia, with here and there a
solitary tree of a rich dark-green hue, from forty to fifty feet in
height. From the summit I had a fine view down the valley of the Dawson,
which was bounded on both sides by ranges. A high distant mountain was
seen about N.N.E. from Lynd's Range, at the left side of the Dawson.

The water-holes abounded with jew-fish and eels; of the latter we
obtained a good supply, and dried two of them, which kept very well. Two
species of Limnaea, the one of narrow lengthened form, the other shorter
and broader; a species of Paludina, and Cyclas and Unios, were frequent.
The jew-fish has the same distoma in its swimming bladder, which I
observed in specimens caught in the Severn River to the southward of
Moreton Bay: on examining the intestines of this fish, they were full of
the shells of Limnaea and Cyclas. Large specimens of helix were frequent
on the Vervain Plains, but they were only dead shells. The fat-hen
(Atriplex) and the sow-thistle (Sonchus) grew abundantly on the reedy
flats at the upper end of the creek; Grewia, a prostrate Myoporum, and a
bean with yellow blossoms, were frequent all over the valley. Atriplex
forms, when young, as we gratefully experienced, an excellent vegetable,
as do also the young shoots of Sonchus. The tops of the Corypha palm eat
well, either baked in hot ashes or raw, and, although very indigestible,
did not prove injurious to health when eaten in small quantities. In the
vicinity of the swamps of Palm-tree Creek, I noticed a grass with an ear
much resembling the bearded wheat: with the exception of the cultivated
Cerealia, it had the largest seed I ever met with in grasses; even my
Blackfellow was astonished at its remarkable size.

During the night we experienced a strong wind from the northward, and,
during the afternoon, a gust of wind and rain from west and north-west;
but no thunder.

Nov. 18.--Clouds gathered from the west and north-west, a few drops of
rain fell, and a few low peals of thunder were heard; but, although
charged with electric fluid, and, in appearance, threatening an
approaching thunder-storm, no discharge of lightning took place. We were
very much annoyed and harassed, during the evening and the early part of
the night, by sand-flies and mosquitoes; but the clear night grew so
cold, that these great enemies of bush comforts were soon benumbed. The
latitude of the camp of the 18th November was 25 degrees 30 minutes 11
seconds.

Nov. 19.--No air stirring, night very cold and bright; dew heavy; the
surface of the creek covered with vapour; the water very warm.

Having no apparatus for ascertaining the height of our position above the
level of the sea, this very interesting fact could not be determined;
but, from the cold experienced, at a period so near the summer solstice,
the elevation must have been very considerable.

We travelled during the day in a westerly direction over a level country,
partly covered with reeds and fat-hen, and came to a broad sandy creek,
which turned to the south-east and south. Having crossed it, we passed
several large lagoons and swamps covered with plovers and ducks; and, at
a short mile farther, came again on the creek, which now had a deep
channel and a broad sandy bed lined with casuarinas and flooded-gum
trees. I called this "Robinson's Creek." At its left bank, we saw a wide
sheet of water, beyond which rose a range densely covered with scrub: I
called them "Murphy's Lake and Range," after John Murphy, one of my
companions.

I believe that Robinson's Creek is a westerly water; and, if so, it is
very remarkable that the heads of Palm-tree Creek, which flows to the
eastward, should be scarcely a mile distant; and that the interesting
space, separating the two systems of waters, should be, to all
appearance, a dead level.

I had descended--from a scrubby table land, the continuation of Darling
Downs--into a system of easterly waters. I had followed down the Dawson
for a considerable distance, and then, following up one of its creeks,
found myself again on westerly waters. I could not decide, to my entire
satisfaction, whether my views were right; for the country was difficult
for reconnoitring; and I was necessarily compelled to move quickly on, to
accomplish the object of my expedition: but it is a very interesting
point for geographical research, and I hope, if I am not anticipated by
other explorers, to ascertain, at some future period, the course of these
creeks and rivers.

Nov. 20.--The first part of the night till the setting of the moon was
very clear; after this it became cloudy, but cleared again at sunrise,
with the exception of some mackerel-sky and stratus to the north-west.
During the forenoon it was again cloudy, and a thunder-storm occurred at
half-past two o'clock from the north-west and west-north-west, with
little rain, but a heavy gust of wind.

In travelling to the westward, along Robinson's Creek, although two or
three miles distant from it, we passed two lakes, one of which was a
fine, long, but rather narrow, sheet of water, with swamps to the
south-east. About six miles farther on, the country began to rise into
irregular scrubby ridges; the scrub generally composed of Vitex
intermingled with various forest trees. The small orange-tree, which we
had found in blossom at the Condamine, was setting its fruit. Farther on,
the dense Bricklow scrub compelled me to approach the banks of the creek,
where we travelled over fine flats, but with a rather sandy rotten soil.
The apple-tree, flooded-gum, silver-leaved ironbark, and the bastard-box
grew on the flats and on the ridges. The creek was well provided with
large water-holes, surrounded by high reeds.

We now entered a mountainous country; and the banks of the creek became
sometimes very steep and broken by narrow gullies, rendering our progress
slow and difficult. We had to wind our way through narrow valleys, and
over ranges from which the descent was frequently very steep and
dangerous. The latitude of our camp of the 21st November was 25 degrees
28 minutes 12 seconds; that of the 22nd was 25 degrees 25 minutes; that
of the 23rd, about 32 miles west of Murphy's Lake, was 25 degrees 27
minutes 12 seconds. Here the ranges were, for the most part, openly
timbered, with the exception of the higher points, which were generally
covered with vine-brush; in one of which we found the nests of the brush
turkey (Talegalla Lathami), and observed the bird itself. Some
considerable stretches of beautiful country were now travelled over; the
leading feature being low ridges, openly timbered with the silver-leaved
ironbark, covered with an abundance of grass and herbs, and furnished
with large lagoons; there was also a constant supply of water in the
creek itself. On the banks of the latter, a species of Sterculia grows to
a large size, and is one of the most pleasing and ornamental trees of the
country; it is probably different from, although nearly allied to S.
heterophylla. Very disagreeable, however, was the abundance of Burr and
of a spear-grass (Aristida), which attached themselves to our clothes and
blankets, and entered (particularly the latter) into the very skin. I
have also to mention, that a yellow Villarsia was found on one of the
lakes; which were generally surrounded by high sedges. We have not seen
black swans since leaving Murphy's Lake; at which place we first saw a
species of whistling duck, (Leptotarsis, GOULD.)

Appearances indicated that the commencement of the ranges was a favourite
resort of the "Blackfellows." The remains of recent repasts of muscles
were strewed about the larger water-holes, and, as I passed a native
camp, which had only lately been vacated, I found, under a few sheets of
bark, four fine kangaroo nets, made of the bark of Sterculia; also
several bundles of sticks, which are used to stretch them. As I was in
the greatest want of cordage, I took two of these nets; and left, in
return, a fine brass hilted sword, the hilt of which was well polished,
four fishing-hooks, and a silk handkerchief; with which, I felt
convinced, they would be as well pleased, as I was with the cordage of
their nets. It was to this spot that Mr. Pemberton Hodgson penetrated,
when he afterwards followed my tracks, to ascertain the truth of the
rumours, which had been carried by the blacks to Moreton Bay, of my
having been either killed by the natives, or destroyed by a hurricane,
which was said to have passed through the narrow valley of the confined
creek.

The high mountain ranges, at the head of Robinson's Creek, which we
observed from the tops of the hills, at the entrance into the mountainous
country, bore W.N.W., and N.W. from the position I now occupied. We had a
thunder-storm on the 21st November, followed by continued rain and a
perfect calm During the night occasional showers of rain fell; at sunrise
light fleecy clouds from W.N.W.: the nights, when clear, were very cold.

Until very lately we had all suffered severely from diarrhoea, which I
could not account for, othewise than by attributing it to our change of
diet. Fresh meat had almost invariably affected us; but after a time our
continued exposure to the air, the regularity of our movements, and
constant state of exertion, rendered us more hardy, and sharpened our
appetites. Iguanas, opossums, and birds of all kinds, had for some time
past been most gladly consigned to our stewing-pot, neither good, bad,
nor indifferent being rejected. The dried kangaroo meat, one of our
luxuries, differed very little in flavour from the dried beef, and both,
after long stewing, afforded us an excellent broth, to which we generally
added a little flour. It is remarkable how soon man becomes indifferent
to the niceties of food; and, when all the artificial wants of society
have dropped off, the bare necessities of life form the only object of
his desires.

One of our bullocks had torn one of the flour-bags, and about fifteen
pounds of flour were scattered over the ground. We all set to work, to
scrape as much of it up as we could, using the dry gum leaves as spoons
to collect it; and, when it got too dirty to mix again with our flour,
rather than leave so much behind, we collected about six pounds of it
well mixed with dried leaves and dust, and of this we made a porridge,--a
mess which, with the addition of some gelatine, every one of us enjoyed
highly.

No new insects, few new birds, and but few plants, attracted our
attention. Mr. Gilbert's parrot, which he first met with on the downs,
was very frequent; the glucking-bird and the barking-owl were heard
throughout the moonlight nights. Several native dogs were killed, and
their howling was frequently heard. Only one kangaroo had been shot since
we left the Dawson, although their tracks were met with every where.
Charley had taken several opossums; the presence of these animals
generally indicates a good country. Quails were abundant, but not worth
our powder; flocks of spur-winged plovers were living at the lakes and
swamps, and a shy hornbill (Scythrops) was seen and heard several times.
The nests of the white ant were rarely seen; but the soldier ant, and the
whole host of the others, were every where. The funnel ant digs a
perpendicular hole in the ground, and surrounds the opening with an
elevated wall, sloping outwards like a funnel; the presence of this
insect generally indicates a rotten soil, into which horses and cattle
sink beyond their fetlocks. This soil is, however, by no means a pure
sand, but is well mixed with particles of clay, which allow the ant to
construct its fabric. In rainy weather this soil forms the best
travelling ground, and is by no means so rotten as when dry.

Large hornets of a bright yellow colour, with some black marks, made
their paper nests on the stems of trees, or suspended them from the dry
branches; most of us were several times severely stung by them. When
found near our encampment we generally destroyed them, by quickly raising
a large fire with dry grass.

A species of Gristes was abundant in the water-holes, but it was of small
size: the eels have disappeared.

Nov. 25.--We travelled about eight miles, north by west, ascending a
spur, from which the waters flowed, both to the south-west and to the
eastward, but both collecting in Robinson's Creek. Every time we turned
to the westward we came on tremendous gullies, with almost perpendicular
walls, whereas the easterly waters formed shallow valleys of a gently
sloping character. The range was openly timbered with white-gum,
spotted-gum, Ironbark, rusty-gum, and the cypress-pine near the gullies;
and with a little dioecious tree belonging to the Euphorbiaceae, which I
first met with at the Severn River, and which was known amongst us under
the name of the "Severn Tree:" it had a yellow or red three-capsular
fruit, with a thin fleshy pericarp, of an exceedingly bitter taste; the
capsules were one-seeded. The gullies were full of bush-trees, amongst
which the Bottle-tree, and the Corypha-palm were frequent. Pomaderris and
Flindersia were in fruit and blossom. According to Mr. Gilbert, rock
wallabies were very numerous. On a RECONNOISSANCE I traversed the
continuation of the range, which I found to be of a flat, sandy, and
rotten character, having, with the exception of the Blackbutt, all the
trees and other characteristics of the sandstone country of Moreton Bay:
Xylomelum, Xanthorrhaea, Zamia, Leptospermum, a new species of forest
oak, which deserves the name of Casuarina VILLOSA, for its bark looks
quite villous; Persoonia falcata, R. Br., a small tree about fifteen feet
high, with stiff glaucous falcate leaves, and racemose inflorescence; a
dwarf Persoonia, with linear leaves, the stringy-bark, and a species of
Melaleuca along the creek. In my excursion I crossed the main branch of
Robinson's Creek, and found the gullies of its right bank as steep and
tremendous as those of the left. Water was very scarce. The whole country
is composed of a fine-grained sandstone.

As the water-holes on the range are very few and distant from each other,
they are frequented by the bronze-winged pigeons in great numbers. Mr.
Gilbert shot eight of them, and Mr. Roper, John Murphy, and Charley,
added to the number, so that we had a fine pigeon supper and breakfast,
each having his bird--a rare occurrence in our expedition. A few drops of
rain fell in the morning.

Nov. 26.--When we were waiting for our bullocks, four emus came trotting
down the slope towards the camp. Messrs. Gilbert, Roper, Murphy, and
Brown, having their horses ready, gave chase, and, after a dangerous
gallop, over extremely rocky ground, succeeded, with the assistance of
our kangaroo dog, Spring, in securing one of them. When Charley returned
to the camp with the bullocks, he told us that he had found these emus
walking amongst the bullocks, and that he had struck one of them with his
tomahawk. On our road to the water, which I had found on my
reconnoisance, about seven miles W.N.W., under a still higher range,
rising at the right of Robinson's Creek, we started a herd of eight
kangaroos, when our horsemen, assisted by Spring, were again successful
in taking one of them.

Nov. 27.--A thunder-storm during the night, which passed, however, to the
other side of the range. After a gust of wind of short duration, we had
some very light showers; so light indeed, as not to interrupt our
meat-drying process.

Proceeding on our journey, we ascended the range, and travelled between
four and five miles on its level summit, which was covered with open
forest, interspersed with thickets of Acacias and Casuarinas. From the
extremity of the range we enjoyed a very fine and extensive view. Ranges
of mountains with conspicuous peaks, cupolas, and precipitous walls of
rock, were observed extending at various distances from west by north to
north-west. The most distant range was particularly striking and
imposing; I called it "Expedition Range," and to a bell-shaped mountain
bearing N. 68 degrees W., I gave the name of "Mount Nicholson," in honour
of Dr. Charles Nicholson, who first introduced into the Legislative
Council of New South Wales, the subject of an overland expedition to Port
Essington; and to a sharp peak N. 66 degrees W., the name of "Aldis's
Peak," in acknowledgment of the kind assistance received from Mr. Aldis
of Sydney. We then descended, with great difficulty into a broad valley,
bounded on either side by fine slopes and ridges, openly timbered with
silver-leaved Ironbark. On the small well-grassed flats along the
watercourse, the flooded-gum and apple-trees grew to a considerable size.

The morning was cloudy, with occasional drops of rain; but it cleared up
towards noon, and, near sunset, a wall of dark clouds rose in the west,
over the ranges. Thunder-storms very generally come with westerly cloudy
weather, with north-westerly, and northerly winds. We busied ourselves in
extracting the oil from the skin of the emu: this operation was performed
by suspending it on sticks before a gentle fire, the oil dripping from it
into a shallow vessel. It is of a light amber colour, and is very useful
in oiling the locks of our fire-arms; it has been considered a good
anti-rheumatic, and I occasionally used it for that purpose.

Mr. Gilbert skinned the tail of the kangaroo to make a bag for holding
fat; but it broke and ripped so easily when dry, as to render it unfit
for that purpose. We used the skins of the kangaroos to cover our
flour-bags, which were in a most wretched condition. Our latitude was 25
degrees 19 minutes 19 seconds.

Nov. 28.--Charley and Brown informed us that they had followed the
watercourse, and had come to a broad river with precipitous banks, which
would not allow any passage for our horses and cattle; they also stated
that the watercourse on which we were encamped, became a rocky gully, and
that it would be impossible to cross it lower down. From this information
I supposed that a river, like the Robinson, rising in many gullies of the
north-east ranges, and flowing in south-west direction was before us; I,
therefore, decided upon heading it. It was, however, very difficult to
find a leading spur, and we frequently came on deep and impassable
gullies, surrounded by a dense thicket of cypresspine, and a great
variety of shrubs peculiar to sandstone rock. After travelling about nine
miles in a N. 15 degrees E. direction, we came to a subordinate range,
and having found, in one of its watercourses, some tolerable grass and a
fine water-hole, we were enabled to encamp. Mr. Roper and Charley, who
had kept a little more to the left, reported that they had been on one of
the heads of the Boyd, and had seen a fine open country to the westward,
and south-west. The "Boyd" was so named in acknowledgment of the liberal
support I had received from Benjamin Boyd, Esq.

Amongst the shrubs along the gullies, a new species of Dodonaea, with
pinnate pubescent leaves, was frequent. Towards evening we had a
thunderstorm from the westward.

Nov. 29.--In reconnoitring the country in the neighbourhood of the camp,
I ascended three mountains, and ascertained that there are five parallel
ranges, striking from north to south, of which the three easterly ones
send their waters to the eastward; whereas the two westerly ones send
theirs to the Boyd, the valley of which has a south-westerly direction.
To the north of the Boyd, there is a steep mountain barrier, striking
from east to west. All these ranges are composed of sandstone, with their
horizontal strata, some of which have a very fine grain. Impressions of
Calamites were observed in one of the gullies. We also saw two kangaroos.
In the water-hole near our camp, there were numerous small brown leeches,
which were very keen in the water, but dropped off as soon as we lifted
our feet out of it. The hornets also were very troublesome. Recent bush
fires and still smoking trees betokened the presence of natives; who
keep, however, carefully out of sight. This country, with its dry scrubby
ranges and its deep rocky gullies, seems to be thinly inhabited; the
natives keeping, probably, to the lower course of Robinson's Creek and of
the Boyd. The descent to the easterly waters is much more gentle; water
remains longer in the deep rocky basins or puddled holes of its creeks,
and the vegetation is richer and greener. Instead of the cypress-pine
scrub, the Corypha-palm and the Casuarina grew here, and invited us to
cool shaded waters; the Corypha-palm promised a good supply of cabbage.
We had a thunder-storm from the southward, which turned from the range to
the eastward. The two last days were cloudless and very hot; but, on the
ranges, a cool breeze was stirring from the northward.

Nov. 30.--I wished to move my camp to a small water-hole about eight
miles east by north, which I had found yesterday; but, though I kept more
to the northward than I thought necessary, we were everywhere intercepted
by deep rocky gullies. Losing much time in heading them, I ventured to
descend one of the more practicable spurs, and, to my great satisfaction,
my bullocks did it admirably well. The valley into which I entered was
very different from these barriers; gentle slopes, covered with open
forest of silver-leaved Ironbark, and most beautifully grassed,
facilitated my gradual descent to the bottom of the valley, which was
broad, flat, thinly timbered with flooded-gum and apple-trees, densely
covered with grass, and, in the bed of the creek which passed through it,
well provided with reedy water-holes. Before I ventured to proceed with
my whole party, I determined to examine the country in advance, and
therefore followed up one of the branches of the main creek, in a
northerly direction. In proceeding, the silver-leaved Ironbark forest
soon ceased, and the valley became narrow and bounded by perpendicular
walls of sandstone, composed of coarse grains of quartz, rising out of
sandy slopes covered with Dogwood (Jacksonia) and spotted-gum. The rock
is in a state of rapid decomposition, with deep holes and caves inhabited
by rock-wallabies; and with abundance of nests of wasps, and wasp-like
Hymenoptera, attached to their walls, or fixed in the interstices of the
loose rock. Through a few gullies I succeeded in ascending a kind of
table-land, covered with a low scrub, in which the vegetation about
Sydney appeared in several of its most common forms. I then descended
into other valleys to the eastward, but all turned to the east and
south-east; and, after a long and patient investigation, I found no
opening through which we could pass with our bullocks. Although I
returned little satisfied with my ride, I had obtained much interesting
information as to the geological character of this singular country.




CHAPTER III



RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR
REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS RANGES--BROWN'S
LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.


Dec. 1.--I rode to the eastward from our camp, to ascertain how far we
were from the water-hole to which I had intended to conduct my party.
After having ascended the gullies, and passed the low scrub and
cypress-pine thicket which surrounds them, I came into the open forest,
and soon found our tracks, and the little creek for which I had steered
the day before. This creek, however, soon became a rocky gully, and
joined a large creek, trending to the east and south-east. Disheartened
and fatigued, I returned to the camp, resolved upon following down the
course of the Boyd to the south-west, until I should come into a more
open country. On my way back, I fell in with a new system of gullies,
south of the creek I had left, and east of the creek on which our camp
was, and which I had called "The Creek of the Ruined Castles," because
high sandstone rocks, fissured and broken like pillars and walls and the
high gates of the ruined castles of Germany, rise from the broad sandy
summits of many hills on both sides of the valley.

When I returned to the camp, Mr. Gilbert told me, that Mr. Roper and John
Murphy had been on a mountain towards the head of the main creek,
north-west from our camp, and that they had seen an open country before
them. I therefore started, on the 2d December, with Mr. Gilbert to
examine it. Our admiration of the valley increased at every step. The
whole system of creeks and glens which join "Ruined Castle Creek," would
form a most excellent cattle station. With the exception of the narrow
gorge through which the main creek passes to join the Creek of Palms
[Mr. Arrowsmith is of opinion that such a junction is improbable, if
the author is alluding to the creek, called Palm Tree Creek, which he
fell in with about 60 miles to the S.E.--ED.] to the south-east,
which might be shut by a fence not thirty yards long; and of the
passable ranges to the north-west, which lead into a new country,
and which form the pass seen by Roper and Murphy, it is everywhere
surrounded by impassable barriers. Beautiful grass, plenty of water in
the lower part of the creek, and useful timber, unite to recommend this
locality for such a purpose. The creeks to the east and south-east are
also equally adapted for cattle stations. After passing a stony ridge
covered with spotted-gum, from which the remarkable features of the
country around us--the flat-topped mountain wall, the isolated pillars,
the immense heaps of ruins towering over the summits of the
mountains--were visible, we descended a slope of silver-leaved Ironbark,
and came to a chain of water-holes falling to the east. Travelling in a
north-westerly direction, and passing over an openly timbered country,
for about two miles, we came to the division of the waters, on a slight
ridge which seemed to connect two rather isolated ranges. We followed a
watercourse to the northward, which, at seven miles [In the original
drawing the watercourse is not more than two miles long, according to
Mr. Arrowsmith, so that seven miles must be a mistake.--ED.] lower
down, joined an oak-tree creek, coming from the ranges to the eastward.
Here water was very scarce; the banks of the creek were covered with
Bricklow scrub; and a bush-fire, which had recently swept down the valley,
had left very little food for our cattle: the blady-grass, however, had
begun to show its young shoots, and the vegetation, on some patches of
less recent burnings, looked green. Sterculia (heterophylla?) and the
Bottle-tree, were growing in the scrub; and many Wonga-Wonga pigeons
(Leucosarcia picata, GOULD.) were started from their roosting-places under
the old trees in the sandy bed of the creek. We caught a young curlew; and
Mr. Gilbert shot two Wonga-Wongas, and three partridge-pigeons (Geophaps
scripta). The latter abound in the silver-leaved Ironbark forest, where
the grass has been recently burned.

After having contended with scrubs, with swamps, and with mountains, we
were again doomed to grapple with our old enemy, the silver-leaved
Bricklow, and a prickly Acacia with pinnate leaves, much resembling the
A. farnesiana of Darling Downs.

The most remarkable feature in the vegetation; however, was an aborescent
Zamia, with a stem from seven to eight or ten feet high, and about nine
inches in diameter, and with elongated cones, not yet ripe. In
consequence of the prevalence of this plant, I called the creek "Zamia
Creek." In the fat-hen flats, over which we travelled in following the
watercourse to Zamia creek, I was surprised to find Erythrina, which I
had been accustomed to meet with only on the creeks, and at the outskirts
of mountain brushes, near the sea-coast. The white cedar (Melia
Azedarach) grows also along Zamia Creek, with casuarina, and a species of
Leptospermum. On my return to the camp, I found that a party had been out
wallabi shooting, and had brought in three; they were about two feet
long; body reddish grey, neck mouse grey, a white stripe on each
shoulder, black muzzle, and black at the back of the ear; the tail with
rather long hair. The flying squirrel (Petaurus sciureus) which was not
different from that of the Hunter; and a Centropus phasianellus, (the
swamp pheasant of Moreton Bay), were shot.

Dec. 3.--We stopped at Ruined Castle Creek, in order to obtain more
wallabies, which abounded among the rocks, and which appeared to be a new
species: it approaches nearest to Petrogale lateralis of GOULD, from
which, however, it essentially differs. Mr. Gilbert and all our best
shots went to try their luck; they succeeded in killing seven of them.

The weather was cloudy, but it cleared up during the forenoon; in the
afternoon rain commenced with a perfect calm; for the last three days
easterly winds have prevailed, often blowing very strong at night.

In the rocky gullies, we found the following plants: a new species of
Grevillea, having pinnatifid leaves with very long divisions, the
blossoms of a fine red, and the seed-vessels containing two flat seeds,
surrounded by a narrow transparent membrane; Leucopogon juniperinum and
lanceolatum; a Dodonaea with long linear leaves and D. triquetra, were
frequent.

Dec. 4.--I went with my whole party to Zamia Creek, the latitude of which
is 25 degrees 5 minutes 4 seconds, and which is about sixteen miles west
by north from our last camp.

Dec. 5.--We followed Zamia Creek about six miles down. It is very winding
and scrubby; the rock on its banks is a clayey flagstone (Psammite); the
upper strata are more clayey, and break in many small pieces. Several
hills approached the creek; and a large mountain which I called Bigge's
Mountain, in acknowledgment of the kind support of Frederic Bigge, Esq.,
was seen to the eastward. A large kangaroo started out of the creek, and
was killed by our dogs; it appeared to be rather different from the
common one, being remarkably light-coloured, with a white belly, black
end of the tail, and the inside of the ear dark. We soon met with a fine
reedy water-hole, with swarms of little finches fluttering about it; and,
the place being suitable, I encamped for the night, and took the
opportunity to repair some of our harness. The night was cloudy; the
morning very fine; and the day very hot, with an occasional fresh breeze
from the northward, which generally sets in about eleven o'clock. Thick
cumuli came from the northward during the afternoon, but disappeared
towards sunset.

Dec. 6.--After a fine night, we had a cold morning with heavy dew. From
the hills near the camp, Mount Nicholson bore N. 30 degrees W. and
Aldis's Peak due north; Bigge's Range was in sight to the eastward.

The horses had gone back to Ruined Castle Creek, about twenty-one miles
distant; and the bullocks to our last camp, which, according to Charley,
had been visited by the Blackfellows, who had apparently examined it very
minutely. It was evident that they kept an eye upon us, although they
never made their appearance. Our allowance of flour was now reduced from
six pounds to five.

Dec. 7.--We travelled down Zamia Creek. The bed of the creek, though
lined with many casuarinas, was entirely dry, and we did not reach a
water-hole until we had travelled a distance of nine miles from the camp.
Hoping that the supply of water would increase, I travelled on ward,
leaving Mount Nicholson about six miles to the left. As we proceeded, the
flats along the creek increased in size; and we entered a level country
(which seemed unbounded towards the north-east) covered with
silver-leaved Ironbark, box, and flooded-gum. We passed a large scrubby
creek, coming from Mount Nicholson, and a considerable watercourse from
Aldis's Peak. On the latter, we found a fine water-hole, at which we
encamped. We started a great number of kangaroos; but, unfortunately,
they all escaped. The whole country was full of game.

Whilst preparing to proceed on a RECONNOISSANCE of the neighbourhood,
Charley, who had been sent for my horse, returned at full gallop, and
told me that Blackfellows were spearing our horses. Fortunately Messrs.
Gilbert and Calvert had just come in; and, mounting our horses, three of
us hastened to the place where Charley had seen the Blacks, leaving the
remainder of our party to defend the camp. We found one of our horses had
been deeply wounded in the shoulder; but fortunately, the others were
unhurt, and were grazing quietly. Charley saw two Blackfellows retreating
into the scrub, but had seen a great number of them when he first came to
the place. This event, fortunately not a very disastrous one, was so far
useful, as it impressed every one with the necessity of being watchful,
even when the Blackfellows were not suspected to be near.

The latitude of our camp was 24 degrees 54 minutes 19 seconds, and about
seven miles from our last camp. Aldis's Peak bore N.W. by W., distant two
miles and a half; and I found that it was surrounded by a dense scrub.
After following Zamia Creek for some miles, I turned to the left, and
travelled about north-north-west, when the scrub opened, and we came upon
open ridges, and, at about a mile and a half from the river, found some
fine lagoons. The ridges, which are spurs of Aldis's Peak and Expedition
Range, disappear in the level country to the north-east. Farther on to
the north-north-west, I passed some fine plains, having the black soil,
the vegetation, the dry creeks and watercourses, of Darling Downs. Thick
scrub seems to extend all along the foot of the range, from Aldis's Peak
to Mount Nicholson. Both these mountains are composed of basalt,
containing numerous crystals of peridot.

Dec. 8.--I travelled with my whole party over the ground which I had
reconnoitred yesterday, and had to go a considerable distance farther to
find water. Along the scrubs there are generally chains of water-holes,
which retain the water for a long time, and are soon filled by heavy
thunderstorms; they are well puddled with clay, and, therefore, become
dry almost exclusively by evaporation. Our camp was about eight miles
N.N.W. from the last.

The feed was all parched up: the native carrot, which was so green when
we passed Darling Downs, was here withered and in seed. Immense stretches
of forest had been lately burned, and no trace of vegetation remained.
Partridge-pigeons were very numerous, and the tracks of kangaroos and
wallabies were like sheep-walks. Charley saw an emu; but an iguana and a
partridge-pigeon were the only addition to our night's mess.

The sky was covered by a thin haze, occasioned by extensive bush fires. A
fine breeze, which sprung up at eleven o'clock, from the northward, made
travelling very agreeable. We enjoy no meal so much as our tea and damper
at luncheon, when we encamp between twelve and two o'clock. It is
remarkable how readily the tea dispels every feeling of fatigue, without
the slightest subsequent injury of health.

Paludinas and Unios were very frequent in the water-holes. The
silver-leaved Ironbark (Eucalyptus pulverulentus) was here coming into
blossom. The whole vegetation seemed to feel the heat of an almost
vertical sun; and, with the exception of the fresh green of the Vitex
shrub, the silver-leaved Bricklow, and those patches of young grass which
had been burnt about a month before--all nature looked withered. It was
very hot from nine o'clock to eleven, when the cooling northerly breeze
usually sets in.

Upon reaching the place of our next camp, Mr. Roper went to cut
tent-poles, but, perhaps too intent on finding good ones, unfortunately
lost his way, and wandered about the bush for about five miles before we
were able to make him hear our cooees. Accidents of this kind happen very
easily in a wooded country, where there is no leading range or
watercourse to guide the rambler, or when sufficient care is not taken to
mark and keep the direction of the camp.

Dec. 9.--The haze of yesterday cleared up at sunset, after having formed
two threatening masses of clouds in the east and in the west, united by a
broad belt of mare's tails across the sky. It became cloudy again, and
prevented my taking observations during the night; the morning was cool
and agreeable, clearing up about eleven o'clock; the northerly wind
stirring, as usual. Proceeding on our journey, we travelled about nine
miles W.N.W. over a Box flat, with stiff soil and melon-holes; after a
few miles, it changed into an open silver-leaved Ironbark forest, with
lighter soil. About six miles from our last camp, we came upon a fine
creek (with Casuarinas and palm-trees), flowing from the mountains on a
north-easterly course; and, about three miles further, to the W.N.W., we
came to another creek, and numerous palm-trees growing near it. Following
up the latter, we found a fine water-hole surrounded by reeds, and which
is probably fed by a spring. The forest was well grassed; and a small
Acacia, about fifteen or twenty feet high, with light green bipinnate
leaves (from which exuded an amber-coloured eatable gum), formed groves
and thickets within it. A Capparis, a small stunted tree, was in fruit:
this fruit is about one inch long and three-quarters of an inch broad,
pear-shaped and smooth, with some irregular prominent lines. Capparis
Mitchelii has a downy fruit, and is common in the scrubs. A small
trailing Capparis, also with oblong eatable fruit, was first observed on
a hill near Ruined Castle Creek, in lat. 25 degrees 10 minutes: we met
with it frequently afterwards. We were encamped in the shade of a fine
Erythrina; and the Corypha-palm, Tristania, the flooded-gum, the
silver-leaved Ironbark, Tripetelus, and a species of Croton, grew around
us. A species of Hypochaeris and of Sonchus, were greedily eaten by our
horses; the large Xeranthemum grew on the slopes, among high tufts of
kangaroo grass. A species of Borage (Trichodesma zeylanica), with fine
blue flowers, was first seen here; and the native raspberry, and Ficus
muntia, were in fruit. In the afternoon, I went with Brown up the range,
following the bed of our creek; and, having ascended a spur of sandstone,
with gullies on each side, we came to a large basaltic mountain, clothed
with fine open timber, and a great number of arborescent Zamias.

Dec. 10.--Accompanied by Charley, I went in search of a passage over the
range. We ascended several hills in order to obtain general views, and
found that the level country, over which we had travelled during the last
two days, was of less extent than I had anticipated. To the north-east by
east, ranges rise with the characteristic outlines of the basalt and
phonolite,--in peaks and long stretched flat-topped hills, with
undulations openly timbered extending at their base. One valley descended
to the north-north-east; another to the northward. The principal range
has a direction from south-west to north-east; it is flat on the top, is
well grassed and openly timbered; but, to the northward, it becomes
scrubby, and also changes its geological character. After having crossed
the range--without any great difficulty, with the exception of some steep
places--we came on gullies going down to the north-west; and, from the
rocky head of one of them, the whole country to the west and northwest
burst upon us. There was a fine valley, a flat country, plains, isolated
long-stretched hills, and distant ranges; the highest points of the
latter bearing 77 degrees E. and 76 degrees W.; and, as I hoped to reach
them by Christmas time, I called them "Christmas Ranges." Not being able
to discover a good slope on which our bullocks could travel, I descended
at once into the gully, and followed it in all its windings; knowing well
from experience that it is easier to find a passage up a mountain range
than down it. The gully had all the characters of those of the Boyd; the
same sandstone rock, the same abruptness, and the same vegetation;
excepting, perhaps, a new Grevillea, with pinnatifid leaves and
yellowish-white woolly flowers, which we found here. There was no water,
except in some small holes full of gum leaves, which had rendered it
unfit for use. After proceeding with great difficulty about three miles,
we found that the gullies opened into a broad flat valley; in which
fields of fat-hen, the Croton shrub, the native Tobacco, Erythrina, fine
specimens of flooded-gum, Tristania, and the Moreton Bay ash, were
growing in great abundance. Farther down, however, the Bricklow scrub
covered the whole valley; the water-course disappeared almost entirely;
and we were completely disappointed in our hopes of finding a fine
country. Small plains opened on both sides of the valley, surrounded by
Bricklow scrub, and with patches of Bricklow scattered over them, in
which the Bottle-tree frequently made its portly appearance. A large
flight of Wonga Wonga pigeons were feeding on the seeds of various
species of Acacia; we shot two of them. No water was to be found in an
extent of fifteen miles. The noisy call of the laughing Jackass (Dacclo
gigantea) made me frequently ride back and examine more minutely those
spots marked by a darker foliage; but the presence of this bird is no
certain indication of water, though he likes the neighbourhood of shady
creeks. I could not help thinking that a considerable creek must come
from the north-west side of Mount Nicholson; and, seeing an isolated
range to the south-west, I rode towards it, sure of finding water near
it, if there was any to be found. We approached the range just before
sunset, much tired, with two Wonga-Wongas and three iguanas at our
saddles. I had just informed my Blackfellow, that I wished to encamp,
even without water, when some old broken sheets of bark, remains of the
frail habitations of the natives, caught my eye; a dry water-hole, though
surrounded with green grass and sedges, showed that they had formerly
encamped there, with water. This water-hole was found to be one of a
chain of ponds extending along the edge of the scrub which covered the
hill; and, on following it farther down, we came to a fine pool of water,
which enabled us to encamp comfortably. Next morning, after having
enjoyed an iguana, and finding several other ponds well supplied with
water, we returned. In crossing several of the scrub plains before
mentioned, it was agreeable to observe that the dense vegetation which
covered them was not the miserable Burr and the wiry Vervain, but
Senecios and Sonchus (Sowthistle), which our horses greedily snatched as
they waded through them. The soil is of a dark colour, very rich, but
mild; and the rock below is basaltic. Kangaroos were feeding on the
plains along the scrub; and Charley fired unsuccessfully at a fine "old
man." I saw one emu, and Charley a drove of ten more. The country was
remarkably rich in various kinds of game; and I was very sorry that we
were not better sportsmen, to avail ourselves of so favourable a
circumstance. We found a passage for our bullocks at the west side of the
valley along which we had come down; the ascent was steep, but
practicable. We followed the spur up to the principal range, where we
found some difficulty in heading some steep gullies, which come up to the
highest crest of the mountains. After some tiresome riding, I was
fortunate enough to hit the head of the creek on which our party was
encamped; and, following it down--over loose rocks, large boulders, and
occasional steep falls--accompanied by my excellent little horse, which
willingly followed wherever I led, I came into a more open country; and
the report of a gun gave me the pleasing assurance that our camp was at
no great distance. My Blackfellow quitted me on the range, as he had done
before, on several similar occasions; and it was too evident that I could
not rely upon him in times of difficulty and danger. Within the scrub on
the range, we found five or six huts, lately constructed, of the natives;
they come here probably to find honey, and to catch rock-wallabies, which
are very numerous in the sandstone gullies. In the gully which I
descended, a shrub with dark-green leaves was tolerably frequent; its red
berries, containing one or two seeds, were about the size of a cherry,
and very good eating when ripe. The new Grevillea, before mentioned, was
also found here growing on a sandy soil; and a species of Clematis tied
the shrubs into an almost impenetrable maze. The arborescent Zamia was as
frequent here as on the slopes and flat tops of the basaltic mountains;
it grows from six to ten feet high, and even higher, and is about a foot
in diameter; and often, its dark scaly trunk, borne to the ground by the
winds, raises its fine head like a reclining man.

There was a thunder-storm to the south-east and east on the 10th
December. These thunder-storms are generally very local, belonging to
distant valleys and ranges. Much rain had fallen at the foot of the
range, but we had very little of it. Several of my companions suffered by
eating too much of the cabbage-palm. The Blackfellows will doubtless
wonder why so many noble trees had been felled here. One of our
kangaroo-dogs followed a kangaroo, and did not return; a severe loss, as
we have only one left out of five, and this one is young and diseased.
Our little terrier keeps very well.

Dec. 12--After a clear night, the morning was misty, with a wall of
clouds to the westward; at nine o'clock it cleared up, and loose cumuli
passed over from the east; at eleven o'clock all clouds had disappeared,
and a cool breeze set in from the northward. Charley did not succeed in
bringing in the horses and cattle sufficiently early for starting on the
long and difficult passage over the range. Our meat was all consumed; but
we wished to reserve our bullocks for Christmas, which was, in every one
of us, so intimately associated with recollections of happy days and
merriment, that I was determined to make the coming season as merry as
our circumstances permitted. This decision being final, every one
cheerfully submitted to a small allowance, and did his best to procure
game. Our latitude was 24 degrees 43 minutes.

Dec. 13.--We travelled along the spur at the west and south-west side of
Erythrina creek, at which we had been encamped; and, after having headed
the whole system of its gullies--keeping to the right along the main
range for about three miles, we came to the spur on which I and Charley
had ascended on our return, and which had a general direction to the
north-west. When we arrived at the foot of the range, our cattle and
horses were so jaded, and the water-hole still so far off, that I
encamped here, more especially as the feed was young and rich, and as I
had hopes of obtaining water by digging into the sand which filled the
upper part of the valley. In this, however, I did not succeed; for, upon
digging about three feet deep, I came on a layer of stiff clay very hard
and dry. Fortunately, however, a thunder-storm came on towards the
evening, which supplied our cattle as well as ourselves with water. This
was the only time we encamped without a certainty of water, during our
journey from Jimba to the head of the gulf, which occupied ten months.
The whole night was showery, the wind and clouds coming from all
directions.

Dec. 14.--We reached the water-holes I had discovered three days
previous. Our cattle were very thirsty, notwithstanding the late rain,
and they rushed into the water as soon as they got sight of it.

The hills, at the foot of which we are encamped, are composed of
whinstone (basalt). Pebbles of conglomerate, of flint, and of quartz
deeply coloured with iron, are, however, very frequent on the slopes. It
is remarkable that that part of the range which is composed of basalt, is
a fine open forest, whereas the basaltic hills of the large valley are
covered with dense scrub. The Myal was frequent; and the fruit of the
small lemon-tree was ripe.

I followed the watercourse which connects the water-holes on which we
encamped, and met every where with Bricklow scrub. Mr. Gilbert ascended
the hills, and stated that the whole valley to the westward appeared like
an immense sea of scrub.

A thunder-storm was forming to the north-west, but was probably deflected
by the ranges.

Dec. 15.--Last night we had two thunder-storms; one rose in the west, and
turned to the northward, following the Christmas Ranges; the other rose
in the south, and turned to the east, probably attracted by Expedition
Range. Still following the watercourse, we entered, after about four
miles travelling, into the scrub. The watercourse was soon lost in the
level ground, and water-holes appeared every where; the general direction
of the waters seemed to be to the north-west. Four miles farther we came
to a piece of open forest at the foot of a hill, which was covered with
ironstone-pebbles. Here we encamped without water; but, having passed
good water-holes not four miles distant, I sent Mr. Calvert and Brown to
fetch some, whilst I and Charley went forward to examine the country. On
my way to some ranges which I had seen to the eastward, I fell in with a
dry watercourse, and, following it down for about half a mile from the
camp, discovered a well-filled water-hole. The watercourse was found to
join a creek with a deep and very wide bed, but dry. Muscle-shells
strewed in every direction, and other appearances, indicated that, during
the wet season, the whole country must be very swampy. The course of the
creek was to the N. N. W., and it is joined by watercourses from the
right and left; all now quite dry. After having followed the creek for
about twelve miles, until sunset, without coming to the end of the scrub
through which it trended, we were compelled to retrace our steps; in
attempting which my companion, Charley, lost the track, but my good
little horse, Jim Crow, guided us to the camp, which we reached about
eleven o'clock. Mr. Calvert and Brown had not yet returned; although the
report of their guns had been heard several times. The night was
extremely cold, notwithstanding we were encamped under the shelter of
trees: and it was therefore evident that we were at a con